An old Russian sauce for meat recipe. Coursework: Sauces of Russian and foreign cuisine

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Section: RUSSIAN CUISINE Traditional Russian dishes Page 35 of the section Traditional sauces and seasonings COLD SAUCES AND SEASONINGS ABOUT RUSSIAN SAUCES AND SEASONINGS Sauces, seasonings and spices are what can completely transform, change and improve the taste, appearance and aroma of the most banal, boring and even boring dish. Therefore, the higher the culinary skill, the more sauces he uses. The presence of various seasonings, spices and several types of ready-made sauces can turn even an ordinary, everyday dinner or lunch into a festive one. Sauces can be hot or cold. Various flour custard sauces are widely used as both hot and cold ones, the basis of which is meat, fish, mushroom and vegetable broths, seasoned with butter, sour cream, milk, thickened with the addition of browned flour and then boiled for 10-12 minutes. Cold sauces and seasonings of simple preparation have always been very popular on the Russian table - mustard, vinegar, horseradish, salad dressings, etc., and now - mayonnaise sauce (classic mayonnaise and Provencal mayonnaise). They especially suited the taste of meat and fish dishes, the abundance of which marked the festive feast. Sour cream, traditional in Russian cuisine, was widely used as sauces; before serving, it was mixed according to taste and occasion with horseradish, various types of onions, herbs, garlic, dry ground herbs, salt, pepper, crushed yolks of hard-boiled eggs, etc. Hot sauces were less represented. Infusions - onion, cabbage, cranberry, lingonberry and other berries, saffron, clove sauces, as well as sour cream, milk, pickle and mushroom sauces - this is a list of the main hot sauces characteristic of Russian cuisine of the 18th - 19th centuries. Moreover, in the preparation of many dishes, the sauce was not prepared separately, but together with the main dish - meat or fish. This feature has been preserved in Russian cuisine to this day. Hot sauces are usually served with hot dishes, cold sauces with cold dishes, appetizers and salads. But this division is quite arbitrary - cold sauces, mayonnaise or ketchup, are used with a wide variety of dishes. Garlic sauce Ingredients: 2 heads of garlic, 1 egg yolk, 1/2 teaspoon ground sweet pepper, 1/2 cup vegetable oil, 1 teaspoon vinegar, salt. Preparation Chop the garlic, mix with sweet pepper, salt, raw yolk, vinegar, vegetable oil and grind thoroughly. Garlic sauce with cottage cheese Ingredients: 4 egg yolks, 5 cloves of garlic, 125 g vegetable oil, 2 tbsp. spoons of low-fat cottage cheese, 2 onions, 1/4 red pepper, salt. Preparation: Mix raw yolks with salt in a mixer for about 3 minutes. Cut the garlic cloves in half, add to the yolks in the mixer and mix for another 1 minute. Pour in the oil in a thin stream (without turning on the mixer). Then add 4 tbsp. spoons of water, cottage cheese, finely chopped onions and peppers and beat. Garlic gravy Ingredients: 2 heads of garlic, 1 glass of meat broth, salt to taste. Preparation Add a little salt to the peeled garlic, grind, put in a sauce boat, pour in strong, but not greasy, cold broth and stir. You can add crushed coriander seeds to the gravy. Lemon vinegar tincture Ingredients: 1 bottle of 9% table vinegar, zest of 2 lemons. Preparation Dip the grated zest of lemons (without white pulp) into the prepared vinegar, seal the bottle, leave in the sun or in a warm place for 2 weeks, strain, reseal and store in a cool place. Vinegar tincture for salads Ingredients: 2 bottles of table vinegar, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of mint greens, savory, chopped shallots, 1/2 tbsp. tablespoons chopped garlic, 1 teaspoon spearmint, zest of 1/2 lemon. Preparation Put all ingredients into the prepared vinegar, keep in a warm place for 2 weeks, strain into bottles, seal and store in a cool place. ABOUT MAYONNAISE (for more details, see page: MAYONNAISE) Invented in the 18th century in France, mayonnaise sauce came to Russian cuisine at the end of the same century. In those days, mayonnaise was very expensive, because the chefs who owned the recipe for making mayonnaise kept it a big secret - although preparing mayonnaise is not difficult, it requires a certain skill and knowledge of cooking technology. Mayonnaise refers to cold “real” or “noble” sauces, i.e. to sauces, the most important components of which are butter and eggs, while flour is completely absent. A real classic mayonnaise sauce (mayonnaise base) is an emulsion of olive oil in raw egg yolk with small additions of sugar, salt and lemon juice. It is possible to add up to 0.5% of various dry finely ground spices - red or black pepper, nutmeg, lemon zest, etc. to taste. And there should be nothing more! No water, no milk! Provencal mayonnaise also contains ready-made mustard. The mayonnaise sauce is translucent in appearance, the color of light honey, has a delicate jelly-like consistency and a subtle, refined taste. Mayonnaise is not intended for long-term storage (in the refrigerator no more than 3-5 days, but it is better to serve immediately), because Gradually, but quite quickly, it loses its excellent taste (although it does not become toxic) due to changes in the raw yolk included in the composition. NOTE: When preparing, emulsify mayonnaise by circular stirring in one direction, but do not beat. Small air bubbles will remain in the mayonnaise for the entire period of permissible storage, which will significantly reduce the shelf life due to increased oxidation. Good mayonnaise should not have any bubbles. Preparation of Provencal mayonnaise (contains mustard) Preparation (emulsification) of this type of mayonnaise is the simplest, because it contains a natural emulsifier - mustard. That is why the taste of this sauce is sharper, not as refined and delicate as that of classic mayonnaise. But this type of mayonnaise is most suitable for many dishes, especially meat dishes. You will need approximately 200 ml (1 cup) of refined olive or sunflower oil. Product temperature is 12-18 degrees Celsius. Take 2-3 possibly orange yolks, less than a teaspoon of sugar, a quarter teaspoon of salt, half a teaspoon of prepared mustard and mix everything well. Add half a teaspoon of oil (not drop by drop, as in preparing mayonnaise without mustard). Emulsify with active circular stirring in one direction until complete homogeneity is achieved and a little more (it is better to over-emulsify than to under-emulsify!). Then add oil one teaspoon at a time, and then, increasing the portions as it thickens, one tablespoon at a time, and towards the end 2-3 tablespoons, thoroughly emulsifying each time. But if you add too much oil even once, the mayonnaise will disintegrate, or, as it is called in cooking, “become oily.” Therefore, when preparing mayonnaise, it is wise to use the principle of paratroopers - “hurry slowly, it will come out faster.” When the emulsification process is completely completed, add lemon juice or vinegar to taste (the mixture turns a little white and becomes more liquid), stir thoroughly and... the mayonnaise is ready! With a little skill, preparing Provencal mayonnaise takes no more than 8 minutes. After standing in the refrigerator for several hours, the sauce becomes more jelly-like. If you want to add a little more sugar or salt to the finished mayonnaise to taste, you should stir thoroughly until the grains are completely dissolved! Otherwise, the emulsion around the undissolved crystals will begin to disintegrate after some time, and then the entire mayonnaise will quickly disintegrate. If the emulsion disintegrates during cooking, you can add 2-3 drops of water and try to emulsify more intensively. If this attempt fails, then you can prepare a new mixture with yolks and add not oil to it during emulsification, but failed mayonnaise. Or simply use the resulting “unsuccessful” mixture for dressing salads, frying scrambled eggs, slices of bread, slices of cheese rolled in egg and breaded in breadcrumbs, etc. (An oily mayonnaise mixture can be stored in the refrigerator, like mayonnaise, for up to a week or more. ) Preparation of classic mayonnaise sauce (without mustard) Everything is the same as when preparing Provencal mayonnaise, but mustard is not added to the yolks. In this case, emulsification is much more difficult. Add refined olive oil (other vegetable oils are even more difficult to emulsify, and the taste is not the same!) at the beginning should be a few drops, at the end no more than a teaspoon. But on the other hand, we will prepare a real classic mayonnaise sauce, less spicy than Provençal, and having that subtle and delicate taste that has made it famous in world cooking. Mayonnaise with additives (snack mayonnaise) Additives are added to the finished mayonnaise shortly before serving - no more than 1 hour. Mayonnaise with additives cannot be stored! Only the most common mayonnaise additives are listed here, but they can be varied indefinitely, adapting to different dishes and individual tastes. Spicy additives are usually added to Provencal mayonnaise, and caviar and sweet additives are added to classic mayonnaise (without mustard). Mayonnaise with horseradish – up to 20% grated horseradish, a little sugar and salt (for preparation, see “Russian table horseradish” below). For cold meat and some fish dishes. Mayonnaise with tomato – up to 30% tomato paste (you can also add a pinch of red pepper, a little more sugar, salt, sometimes add sautéed onions). For boiled cold fish, hot fried fish, for dressing fish salads. Mayonnaise with gherkins and capers – finely chopped gherkins and capers are added to taste. For cold fried meat, for boiled pork. Mayonnaise with spices and soy sauce - added to taste. For dressing meat and vegetable salads. Mayonnaise with dill ("Spring" mayonnaise) - add finely chopped dill to taste, maybe a little parsley, sometimes just add dill oil. Onion mayonnaise - add up to 20% grated onion to taste. Garlic mayonnaise - add garlic gruel and black pepper to taste. Swiss (or apple) mayonnaise - add applesauce to taste, a little equal parts lemon juice and dry wine. Orange mayonnaise - add grated horseradish and orange juice in equal parts to taste. Fermented milk mayonnaise - add katyk or yogurt to taste, a little mustard and lemon juice. Green (or spinach) mayonnaise - add spinach paste and grated horseradish to taste. Mayonnaise for asparagus (chantaille sauce) - add sour cream, whipped with mustard and salt. Mayonnaise with tarragon - add finely chopped fresh tarragon or ground dried tarragon to taste. Snack mayonnaise, various (for cold fish and egg dishes, for sandwiches) - add 20% pureed black caviar; – add 20% pureed red caviar; – 20% of pureed partial caviar is added; – add 20% of pureed or finely chopped herring; – add 20% finely chopped salted salmon, salmon, chum salmon, sockeye salmon, coho salmon; – add 20% finely chopped anchovies; – add 20% finely chopped sprat; – add 20-30% grated cheese (you can add herbs, or caviar, or salted fish). Various dessert mayonnaises (for sweet dishes) - add 25% of some kind of jam or marmalade; – add 25% condensed milk or condensed cream (“Dietary” mayonnaise). Mayonnaise sauce with cucumbers (gherkins) Ingredients: 250 g mayonnaise, 1 pickled cucumber, 1/2 tbsp. spoons of “Southern” sauce. Preparation: Chop the pickled cucumber (pickled from the skin and seeds) into small cubes, squeeze out the brine, mix with mayonnaise and “Yuzhny” sauce. “Russian” sauce Ingredients: 250 g mayonnaise sauce, 75 g mustard dressing, 1 teaspoon “Yuzhny” sauce, 20 g green onions, 20 g parsley, salt. Preparation Add mustard dressing prepared with grape vinegar, “Yuzhny” sauce, finely chopped herbs, salt to mayonnaise and mix. Mayonnaise sauce with cheese and sour cream Ingredients: 100 g mayonnaise, 40 g Dutch cheese, 2 tbsp. spoons of sour cream, 2 teaspoons of vinegar, pepper, salt, herbs. Preparation Combine mayonnaise with grated cheese, add sour cream, vinegar, salt, ground pepper, finely chopped herbs and mix well. Serve with cold boiled meat, tongue, fried and boiled poultry. Mayonnaise sauce with sorrel, herbs and sour cream Ingredients: 120 g mayonnaise, 3 tbsp. spoons of sour cream, 1 tbsp. spoon of canned sorrel puree, 1-2 tbsp. spoons of chopped tarragon, parsley and dill, salt. Preparation: Simmer and puree the tarragon and parsley. Add sorrel, grated herbs, sour cream, salt, finely chopped dill to mayonnaise and mix. Serve with boiled fish. Mayonnaise sauce with tomato and sweet pepper Ingredients: 150 g mayonnaise, 2 tbsp. spoons of tomato puree, 1/2 sweet capsicum, salt to taste. Preparation Boil the tomato puree and, when it cools, mix with mayonnaise. Then add finely chopped sweet peppers, salt and mix again. Serve with cold meat and fish dishes. Salad dressing Ingredients: 1/2 cup vegetable oil, 1/4 cup 3% vinegar, sugar, salt, ground pepper to taste. Preparation Combine all ingredients and mix. Dress vegetable salads. Mustard dressing (mayonnaise diluted with vinegar) Ingredients: 1 glass of vegetable oil, 2 egg yolks, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of prepared mustard, 1 glass of 3% vinegar, sugar, salt, pepper to taste. Preparation Grind table mustard, raw yolks, salt and sugar until smooth. Add vegetable oil little by little and stir in a circular motion until smooth. Pour in each subsequent portion of oil only after the previous one has emulsified (see the “Mayonnaise” recipe above). Dilute the mixture with vinegar, add pepper and stir. Season vinaigrettes and vegetable salads. Mustard dressing with garlic Ingredients: 1 cup vegetable oil, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of prepared mustard, 1 glass of 3% vinegar, 1 head of garlic, salt, sugar, pepper to taste. Preparation Prepare mustard dressing (without adding yolks), mix with finely chopped garlic. Dress salads with fresh and salted vegetables. Sour cream sauce Ingredients: 1 cup sour cream, 1 teaspoon salt, 2 teaspoons sugar, mustard and pepper to taste. Preparation Add salt, sugar, a little mustard and ground black pepper to the sour cream, mix. Sour cream sauce with vinegar Ingredients: 3/4 cup sour cream, 2 tbsp. spoons of 3% vinegar, 2 teaspoons of sugar, salt, pepper. Preparation Add sugar, salt, ground pepper to vinegar and stir. Before serving, add sour cream to the sauce. Sour cream and egg sauce Ingredients: 1 cup sour cream, 3 egg yolks, 1/4 cup 3% vinegar, sugar, salt. Preparation Grind the yolks of hard-boiled eggs thoroughly, mix with thick sour cream, add vinegar, salt and sugar to taste. Sour cream sauce with honey Ingredients: 500 g sour cream, 50 g honey, juice of 1 lemon, salt, ground sweet pepper. Preparation Add honey, lemon juice, salt, ground sweet pepper to sour cream and bring to a boil. Serve with grilled meat. Easter egg sauce Ingredients: 3-4 hard-boiled eggs, 5 tbsp. spoons of finely chopped green onions, 1 glass of thick sour cream, salt, pepper. Preparation: Cut the eggs into medium-sized cubes, mix with sour cream, green onions, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with cold appetizers. Tomato sauce Ingredients: 1/2 cup tomato puree, 2 onions, 2 tbsp. spoons of vegetable oil, 1 tbsp. spoon of flour, 1 glass of water, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of chopped garlic, salt, ground pepper. Preparation Fry finely chopped onion in oil, add tomato puree and heat, then add flour and stir. Add water, salt, pepper, garlic and cook for 10-15 minutes over low heat. Vegetable seasoning Ingredients: 3 tomatoes, 1 small apple, 1 large pepper, 1 carrot, 4 teaspoons of vinegar, 1 tbsp. spoon of sugar, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of crushed garlic, pepper, salt, water. Preparation Pass the vegetables through a meat grinder or chop them very finely, simmer for about 1 hour, cool, add sugar, vinegar, garlic, salt, pepper and mix. “Khrenovina” “Khrenovina” is a famous Siberian seasoning. This is the basic recipe. There are options when you add pepper (both black and red ground and sweet bell pepper), vinegar, and sugar. In everyday life, this seasoning is also called “Gorloder”, “Hrenoder” and even “Cobra”; in cooking it is often used as Ogonyok seasoning. Ingredients: - 3 kg of tomatoes - 250 g of horseradish - 250 g of garlic Preparation: Pass fresh tomatoes, horseradish and garlic through a manual meat grinder. Salt the resulting mass, place in a glass container, close tightly and place in the refrigerator. Along with ripe red tomatoes, you can also use green ones. You can make crap out of just green tomatoes, but the best result is obtained when ripe tomatoes make up at least 2/5 of the total. You can eat horseradish immediately after preparation, but if you let it stand for a week in the refrigerator, it will infuse and taste better. Can be stored in the refrigerator for a long time. (The more horseradish and garlic you use, the better and longer it will be stored.) Before serving, you can add a little mayonnaise or thick sour cream to the “horseradish” to taste. You can add grated apple to taste (preferably Antonovka). Another recipe for “Hrenovina” Ingredients: - 1 kg of ripe tomatoes, - 60 g of horseradish, - 60 g of garlic, - 3 teaspoons of salt, - 1 teaspoon of sugar. Preparation Grind tomatoes, horseradish and garlic through a meat grinder. Add salt and sugar and mix well. Place into small jars (no more than 0.5 liters) with tight lids. Keep refrigerated. Yield: 1.5 l. TIPS You don’t have to remove the skin from the tomatoes; you won’t be able to feel it. It is advisable to grind the horseradish and everything else in a manual meat grinder - it turns out better and noticeably tastier. Or, in the absence of one, turn the horseradish last - it heavily clogs the grate. You need to take about 10 g more horseradish in the hope that some part will screw onto the screw and not turn. If you need to grind a large amount of horseradish, then you need to put a plastic bag on the meat grinder, securing it with an elastic band, otherwise it will seriously irritate your eyes. Under no circumstances should you use “store-bought” canned horseradish. Instead of passing the garlic through a meat grinder, you can crush it with a garlic press. For a sharper taste of the seasoning, you need to take 100 g of horseradish and garlic per 1 kg of tomatoes. For some people, even 60 g of horseradish is a lot. Then take 40 g. The optimal shelf life in the refrigerator with 40 g of horseradish and 60 g of garlic is up to 2-3 weeks. Vyatsky “Hrenoder” Ingredients: 5-6 tomatoes, 50 g horseradish, 50 g garlic, salt, sugar. Preparation Grind the tomatoes, grate the garlic and horseradish on a fine grater, add salt, sugar and mix. Ketchup Ingredients: 5-6 tomatoes, 2 tbsp. tablespoons of chopped onion, 2 - 3 teaspoons of sugar, 2 teaspoons of 9% vinegar, salt, pepper. Preparation: Boil and puree the tomatoes, combine all ingredients and boil the mixture until reduced in volume by 2 times. Place in jars, close tightly and store in the refrigerator. Ketchup with apple Ingredients: 5-6 tomatoes, 1 apple, 1/2 carrot, 1 parsley or celery root, 1 onion, 3 tbsp. tablespoons sugar, 1/2 teaspoon cumin, 1 teaspoon mustard, 2 g pepper (ground and peas), 1 small bay leaf, 1 cloves, 1/2-1 teaspoon 3% vinegar, 1 tsp .spoon of salt. Preparation: Tomatoes, apples, onions, carrots and parsley are put through a meat grinder. Add sugar, cumin, pepper, mustard, bay leaf, cloves, vinegar, salt, pepper, mix and refrigerate for a day. Then cook for 1 hour, stirring frequently so that the mixture does not burn. Rub the mixture through a sieve, boil and cool. Adjika Ingredients: 5-6 tomatoes, 1 large apple, 3 sweet peppers, 2 carrots, 1 head of garlic, 2 tbsp. spoons of sugar, 3 teaspoons of vinegar, salt, pepper. Preparation: Grate the apple and carrots, pass the tomatoes and capsicums through a meat grinder, combine them and cook for about 1 hour, cool, add sugar, vinegar, crushed garlic, salt, pepper and mix. Place in jars, close tightly and store in the refrigerator. Sweet pepper and tomato seasoning Ingredients: 2 pods of red sweet pepper, 2-3 tomatoes, 3 onions, 1/2 cup wine vinegar, 1/4 teaspoon ground red pepper, ground cloves on the tip of a knife, sugar and salt to taste . Preparation Remove the stem and seeds from the pepper pods and chop finely; Scald the tomatoes, remove the skin and also chop. Place chopped peppers, tomatoes and onions in a saucepan, add vinegar and simmer, uncovered, over low heat until almost no liquid remains. Then add sugar, spices, salt to taste and boil the mixture for another 10 minutes over high heat, stirring it constantly. Keep refrigerated. Seasoning “Thistle” Ingredients: 200 g red hot pepper, 200 g garlic, 2 tomatoes, 2 tbsp. spoons of apple cider vinegar, salt. Preparation Pass through a meat grinder with a fine grid, first the tomatoes and garlic, then the pepper. Salt the vegetables, mix, pour in vinegar and let steep for 12 hours. Transfer the mixture to a colander and allow the liquid to drain. Divide the seasoning into jars and pour the resulting sauce into a bottle. Keep refrigerated. Gooseberry and garlic seasoning Ingredients: 500 g of unripe gooseberries, 150 g of garlic, sugar to taste. Preparation Wash and dry the green gooseberries, spreading them in a thin layer on paper. Pass the gooseberries and garlic through a meat grinder, add sugar to taste and mix. Plum seasoning Ingredients: 500 g plums, 60 g garlic, 1 tbsp. adjika spoon, 4 tbsp. spoons of sugar. Preparation Boil the plums, puree, cool and combine with crushed garlic, adjika and sugar. Apple seasoning Ingredients: 8 apples, 6 tbsp. spoons of raisins, 1.5 onions, 4 tomatoes, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of sugar, on the tip of a knife, ginger and cloves (powder), 1 teaspoon of mustard, 2 tbsp. spoons of 6% vinegar. Preparation: Peel the apples, remove the core and seeds and simmer over low heat, adding a little water. Chop the washed raisins and onions. Scald the tomatoes with boiling water and remove the skins. Place all products in a saucepan, add seasonings, sugar, mustard and vinegar and simmer over low heat until cooked. Apple seasoning with horseradish Ingredients: 100 g apples, 100 g horseradish, 100 g butter or margarine, sugar, salt. Preparation Grind butter or margarine until fluffy, add finely grated apples and horseradish, sugar and salt to taste and mix. Soaked lingonberries Ingredients: 2 cups of lingonberries, 1 cup of water, 1 partial spoon of sugar, salt, cinnamon and cloves to taste. Preparation Cook the marinade from water, sugar, salt, cinnamon and cloves. Cool and pour lingonberries over them. Serve as a seasoning for meat and vegetable dishes. Nut oil Grind the nut kernels, dilute a little with water, heat, wrap in a clean cloth and put under a press. The oil turns out to be light yellow in color, with a pleasant smell and taste. Use for adding to salads, first and second courses, flour products.

Russian sauce is essentially beef stroganoff without the meat. Meat fried in small pieces can be added to this sauce later. I usually make a simplified, basic version. But I’ll also give a recipe from the book in which the dish called beef stroganoff was first published (it was somewhat different from the modern version, but more on that later).

This book was the creation of the Russian Mrs. Beaton, Elena Molokhovets, “A Gift for Young Housewives or a Means for Reducing Household Expenses.” The book appeared in 1861, three months after the abolition of serfdom; and, I must say, it happened very timely. After all, after the peasants received their freedom - what a horror! — the servants had to be paid. And this fact required an immediate reduction in expenses for champagne, Hamburg smoked geese, Parma ham and Astrakhan sturgeon. The book apparently offered quite effective solutions, because the book was published 29 times before 1917, with a total circulation of more than 300,000 copies (a very good result for a country in which only thirteen out of a hundred women could read - although for many of them Literacy meant reading store signs syllable by syllable). Be that as it may, two out of ten adult women had this book in their household. In Soviet times, it was recognized as not corresponding to the historical moment, bourgeois and counter-revolutionary, and it was replaced by “The Book of Tasty and Healthy Food.”

Beef Stroganoff (more precisely, beef Stroganoff style (sic!), with mustard) appeared in the 1871 edition of “A Gift for Young Housewives.” Of course, the recipe was based on earlier cooking methods; boiled meat was poured with sour cream instead of sauce back in 16th-century Muscovy, which horrified Europeans. However, they were horrified by many things in Russian cuisine: starting from vodka (“a goat would scream if someone forcibly poured it into it,” writes the Pole Pasek in the 17th century) and ending with the manner of inviting “to the swan goat” (which caused a reaction like wanting to go eat the bird’s ass on my own). But over time (and with the advent of appropriate technical equipment), Russian cuisine reached a world level, where it would have remained to this day if not for seventy-odd years of complete spirituality in grocery stores.

But let's get back to the sauce. In Molokhovets’s version (quite good, although, it should be noted, very similar to the sauces of contemporary French cuisine - but note that cooking only benefits from borrowings) it looked like this: “take half an octam of butter and a spoonful of flour, stir, fry, lightly dilute with 2 cups of broth, add a teaspoon of prepared Sarepta mustard, a little pepper, stir, boil, strain, before serving, add 2 tablespoons of the freshest sour cream... boil once, serve.” In case you want to experiment: half an octam is 25-30 grams, and Sarepta mustard is what we now know as “Russian mustard.”

I’m using a simplified and cheaper version, which finally took shape in the era of highly spiritual Soviet cooking (and without its knowledge) - hunger, as you know, is cunning and wants to eat deliciously, and so on and so forth.

Ingredients:

Large onion.
A tablespoon of butter or sunflower oil.
A glass of sour cream (200-250 grams).
Salt (about half a teaspoon).
Black pepper - to taste, but only to be felt.

You may need a little more water. Especially if the sour cream is homemade.

Cooking Russian sauce

Peel the onion and chop finely.
Heat a frying pan over low heat and melt the butter (or just pour in the sunflower oil).
Place the onion in a frying pan, add salt and fry, stirring occasionally, until golden brown (up to 15-20 minutes, you will have to judge by eye).
Reduce the heat to the lowest setting (or move the frying pan to a divider; the heat should be very low so that the sour cream does not curdle) and pour in the sour cream. Stir and cook for about five to seven minutes, until the sour cream begins to show signs of boiling (these will be very small streams of bubbles). If necessary - if the sauce comes out very thick - you can add a little water.
Before removing the sauce from the heat, pepper it.

All. This sauce goes very well with potatoes and wheat porridge; goes well with meat or river fish. By the way, the meat can be fried (separately) and simmered in this sauce - this is how you’ll get beef stroganoff (if you cut it into small squares or thin strips).

No one forbids adding mustard, tomato paste or a teaspoon of paprika to the sauce.

Rating: ★★★★★

Advantages: This is what they usually say “cheap and cheerful”. Delicious, simple and cheap sauce.

Nuances: It’s better, of course, not to let the sour cream curdle, but even if it overheats slightly, nothing bad will happen; The sauce will still be delicious. Some even specially boil it (but then add water). Be sure to add water if you are not going to eat the sauce in one sitting and will keep it in the refrigerator - it will warm up better. Keep in mind that the sauce is fatty.

Bon appetit!

In many cuisines around the world, sauces play an important role, giving familiar dishes a new and unique taste. In such rich and generally recognized haute cuisines as French and Chinese, there are many sauces. A number of sources, for example, mention three thousand sauces used in France. Even seemingly simple, at first glance, Japanese cuisine uses dozens of sauces. What is known about sauces of Russian cuisine?

Cold sauces

Traditionally, cold sauces were held in high esteem in Rus'. These are, first of all, mustard, horseradish, and vinegar, which are perfect for both meat and fish dishes and have been known in our country since ancient times.

Sour cream was also used as a cold sauce in Russian cuisine, either on its own or mixed with various ingredients. It could be horseradish, onions, garlic, fresh herbs or dried herbs, pepper, salt.

There are many mushroom sauces created on the basis of mushroom decoctions or broths with the addition of various ingredients: vegetables in the form of onions and tomatoes, flour, sour cream.

It is also necessary to say about sauces prepared from meat, fish or vegetable broths by adding flour to thicken.

Hot brews

In the old days, hot dishes were served with infusions, which in the modern sense can be called hot sauces. Since they are not very well known now, let’s read more about them.

The most common brews were onion, cranberry, apple, and cabbage.

Onion was prepared by chopping an onion, soaking it for 10 minutes in vinegar or apple juice, then frying over low heat until soft, adding honey and thickening over low heat. Pepper was added at the end.

There was a cooking option without vinegar and honey, but with the addition of sour cream. The first was added to meat dishes, the second to vegetable dishes. However, this division is conditional; you can add both honey and sour cream at the same time. And serve this version of onion broth with both meat and vegetables.

The onion sauce has an extraordinary taste. First of all, of course, you can feel the onion, but then the sourness of apple, the sweetness of honey and finally the pepper comes through.

Cabbage broth was created on the basis of sauerkraut with the addition of onions and honey. Apple made from apples using onions, wheat flour, pepper. Cranberry broth was made from cranberries with the addition of honey and rye flour. Similar to cranberry, infusions were made from other berries. Saffron and clove infusions are also known. Hot sauces were also prepared from sour cream, brine, milk, and mushrooms.

Nowadays, in addition to traditional Russian sauces, they have become their own: mayonnaise, tomato sauce, tartar sauce.

Like any national cuisine, Russian, including, had its own seasonings, which mainly consisted of plants. How delicious jellied meat or jelly with horseradish and mustard is. Rutabaga, which is better known in our time as fodder beet, was previously grated, horseradish and any greens were added and served with baked pig or delicious potatoes with chicken, which can be prepared according to a very simple recipe described on the website at the link and will pleasantly surprise your household. In Rus', all seasonings were spicy, very bright in taste, and also easy to prepare. It is more correct to divide seasonings in Russia into hot, cold and dry. Brews are considered hot seasonings, simple sauces are cold, and dry seasonings are considered to be black pepper, allspice, coriander, and dill. Russian cuisine, sometimes also called “Slavic”, is known and quite popular in the world for its original, hearty and varied national dishes. The Russian land is famous for its bread and porridges, dumplings and pancakes, pies and pies, solyanka and borscht, cabbage soup and fish soup and a huge number of different dishes. Speaking about seasonings of Russian cuisine, it is impossible not to mention the currently forgotten, but once very popular - boils. This term was used to describe hot seasonings made from onions, cabbage or sour berries, such as lingonberries and cranberries. Vzvary differed sharply from seasonings in other countries, since the latter, as a rule, were used cold. Also, if you are a restaurant and sometimes even prepare food for yourself, then it goes without saying that you need to devote as much time as possible to the packaging equipment itself. In any case, drive conveyors are very convenient and practical. Considering the fact that in any case you need to automate everything as much as possible with large volumes of work... Hot base brew is explained by the fact that in Russian cuisine the unspoken rule was the unity of ingredients, that is, for hot roast the seasoning should be hot, for cold aspic - cold (for example, horseradish). At the beginning of the twentieth century, when Russian home cooking began to undergo dramatic changes in terms of simplifying recipes and reducing cooking time, infusions ceased to be used.

Herbs and spices in modern Russian cuisine

The greens of the plant, as well as the root, are used in fresh and dried form. Used in the preparation of soups, gravies, sauces. Parsley has the ability to stimulate appetite, so it is an excellent component for salads, especially vegetable ones. Due to its beautiful appearance, it is used for decorating dishes. It has a bitter taste and a faint odor. Whole leaves of the plant (most often dried) and powder from them are used. Add to dishes a few minutes before cooking. Its ability to correct unpleasant odors in offal or fish is especially valued. Used for canning cucumbers and tomatoes. Used in almost all dishes, chopped fresh or dry. In modern Russian cuisine it is also used for foreign dishes, for example, pizza or Greek salad. For pickles, faded dill umbrellas are used. For the winter, dill is dried or pickled. Also used for canning vegetables. It has a bitter, pungent taste and pungent odor. It is most often used with meat products and in homemade sausages. Used in canning. To give dishes a light flavor, add a whole clove of garlic during the cooking stage. For a brighter and richer shade, use chopped fresh garlic or garlic powder. It is actively used in industrial ready-made seasonings. Pepper. The most popular type used in Russian cuisine is black pepper. Has a pungent taste. Used in small quantities in all dishes except desserts. Another common type is allspice, which is most often used in unground form in marinades and canned food. Sage. Used in fish dishes, used in the preparation of liver, legumes and vegetables. Used in crushed dried form. Used in mushroom dishes, sauerkraut, pickled apples. Used in confectionery products. Added to preserves and jams. Included in homemade sauces and mustard. It has unique medicinal properties (it has a beneficial effect on the gastrointestinal tract and stimulates the functioning of the reproductive system). It has a specific taste with citrus notes. Fresh, it is most often used in salads. When dried, it is used to flavor the oil (several grains are dropped into boiling sunflower oil and boiled for about five minutes). Horseradish. The root of this plant is used in many spicy sauces for meat and fish dishes. It is the basis for the seasoning of the same name. In old Russian cuisine, horseradish seasoning was prepared immediately before use and served chilled with aspic dishes. The roots of this plant are rich in vitamin C. Included in recipes for sbitney, kvass, mead, and fruit compotes. And the famous Russian mint gingerbreads! Less often, in crushed form, it is added to meat dishes.

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MINISTRY OF EDUCATION AND SCIENCE OF THE RUSSIAN FEDERATION

PERM INSTITUTE (BRANCH)

federal state budgetary educational institution

higher education

RUSSIAN ECONOMIC UNIVERSITY named after G.V. PLEKHANOV

Faculty of Management

Department of "Technology and organization of catering and services"

Course work

in the discipline: "Technology of public catering products"

on the topic: “Sauces in ancient Russian and foreign cuisine”

Completed by student gr. TP-31

Afonasenko Yulia Nikolaevna

Checked by the teacher:

Melentyeva Liliya Alekseevna

Perm, 2016

Introduction

Chapter 1. History of sauces

1.1 Variety of titles

1.2 Purpose in cooking

1.3 Choosing the right sauce

1.4 About sauces

2.1 Pasta sauces

2.2 Sauces for meat

2.3 Sauces for fish

2.4 Sauces for salads

2.5 Sauces for poultry

Conclusion

Bibliography

Applications

special sauce cooking meat

Introduction

Sauces, seasonings and spices are what can completely transform, change and improve the taste, appearance and aroma of the most banal, boring and even boring dish. Therefore, the higher the culinary skill, the more sauces he uses. The presence of various seasonings, spices and several types of ready-made sauces can turn even an ordinary, everyday dinner or lunch into a festive one.

Purpose of the work: to study in more detail the “sauces” section.

Objectives: consolidate theoretical knowledge; acquire skills in making sauces.

The sauce is not a separate dish, but a spice that no cook can do without. The base of numerous sauces is a semi-liquid consistency of light or dark color, which is prepared from beef, birds, game, fish and vegetables. The base can be frozen and used as needed. Today there are many different meat extracts on the market that can be used as a finished product.

The relevance of the chosen topic is determined by the fact that sauces are the basis of any dish; they add piquancy, taste and aroma to dishes.

The object of the study is the presence of a variety of sauces in different cuisines.

The subject of the study is the method of preparing sauces.

By combining spices and sauces, dishes become extraordinary, while they are given new additional taste, aroma and color nuances.

The options for sauces are so diverse, in fact, that there are literally virtually no limits to the flight of the culinary imagination. At the same time, the already famous sauces remain just as important. Watery spice, gravy for food. This is a gigantic, very varied in names and, in fact, very monotonous in technology group of reserve dishes-seasonings, with the help of which taste, aroma, sometimes color and always a special, delicate mixture are imparted to a wide variety of food products that have undergone heat treatment - boiled, baked, boiled - meat, fish, vegetables, fruits, mushrooms, confectionery and flour products, vegetable, egg and cottage cheese casseroles, etc. and so on.

Sauces must perform either a masking, neutralizing or aggravating function, giving a new property or significance to the finished food product or dish. According to their own taste, they are divided into 2 categories - unsweetened sauces and sweet sauces. The difference between sweet sauces is invariably granulated sugar. Unsweetened sauces are divided into cold, intended mainly for salads and cold dishes, and warm. Although this division is completely external, in culinary terms it is relative, since the basics and methods of making both cold and warm sauces are often similar, although not always.

The overwhelming majority of sauces are both cold and hot, sweet and savory - custard. These are the so-called French sauces, that is, invented and used in France.

Their components are broths (meat, fish, mushroom) or decoctions (vegetable, fruit), combined (brewed) with flour, butter, sour cream, cream, milk and then adding eggs (whole or just yolks) to these compositions. Each addition to the flour and broth of any of the above components and the combination of these components or layering them sequentially one on top of the other gives the whole variety of sauce bases. These bases are further layered with: either sugar and fruit and berry juices (to form sweet sauces, which can also be added to a milk base - coffee, cocoa, chocolate), or, conversely, characteristic sour-salty media (vinegar, lemon juice, cucumber pickle, as well as mustard, horseradish, tomato paste) - to create spicy sauces for meat or fish.

All kinds of spices - peppers (black, white, red, Jamaican and Japanese), cloves, cinnamon, vanilla, ginger, herbs from parsley and dill to onions, garlic, chervil and fennel - are finally introduced into ready-made base sauces and allow endless vary and complicate the taste and aroma of both spicy, savory and sweet sauces.

English sauces differ slightly from French sauces, where there is practically no flour, but there is a high percentage of natural meat juice and fat, as well as many different spices, and very significantly - sauces of oriental origin, which are called sauces only by the nature of their use as seasonings, but are based entirely on natural fruit purees and juices, nuts and vegetable pastes with spices and are absolutely devoid of flour custard base. These are Moldavian, Romanian, Bulgarian sauces, built on the principles of Turkish cuisine, or original Georgian sauces, which also experienced Iranian and Turkish influence.

The course work consists of an introduction, two chapters, a conclusion, a list of references and applications.

Chapter 1. History of sauces

Sauces are used in every country when preparing a large number of dishes. Sauces can also be very useful, as they affect the good secretion of gastric juice and make food more tasty and fragrant. In addition, sauces make food more attractive in appearance, helping to increase the number of dishes made from the same product. In fact, a lot of dishes that would otherwise seem uninteresting to us, with the help of sauces, become inimitable in taste. It is curious that there is a version that people invented sauces because they were tired of eating dishes made from the same product, for example, rice.

To diversify the taste sensations, the most ancient eastern cultures began to create different spices and seasonings, stirring them, always using them in a new way.

The selection of sauces for dishes is of great importance, since the extent to which the taste will be successful depends on this. In addition, these sauces, which include eggs and fats, also increase the overall nutritional value of the entire dish. With the help of spices and sauces, the chef changes the natural flavor characteristics of the dish, giving them special flavor shades.

Most vegetables are served with milk sauces, as they enhance the taste and satiety of such dishes. Bread marinade and egg-butter sauce are served with asparagus and cauliflower. For beef and fish, sauces based on meat and fish broths are intended. However, sometimes meat sauces are also served with certain varieties of vegetable and fish dishes. Sauces can be divided into hot and cold. If certain culinary products are prepared, oil mixtures are used, which also applies to sauces.

Strange as it may seem, it often happens that even the most everyday things and phenomena, when closely analyzed, tend to acquire different stories, in which, no, no, one or another familiar name will undoubtedly flash through. And sauces, which we have long become accustomed to, I dare to assure you, are no exception! Judge for yourself, all the famous and most used sauces were invented in the 17th, 18th and early 19th centuries. And what is typical, representatives of the honored nobility did not disdain to be the creators of such “inventions”. For example, the creation of one of the main sauces "bechamel" is rumored to be attributed to Louis de Bechamel, Marquis de Nointel, the son of the famous French diplomat and ethnographer of the late 17th century, Charles People Francois de Nointel, the first collector of fairy tales "1000 and one nights".

But the discreet onion sauce, which until now existed in our kitchen under the name “Soubise” sauce, was supposedly invented by Princess de Soubise (1715-1787). However, our well-known mayonnaise is clearly associated with the name of the leader of the 18th century, Baron Louis of Crillon, the first Duke of Mahon. In 1782, while in Spanish service, he conquered the capital of the island of Minorca, the town of Mahon, from the British. After the battle, a banquet was held, where for the first time they served dishes with a sauce made from the foodstuffs for which the island was famous - bronze olive oil, turkey eggs and lemon juice with the addition of red pepper. This marinade acquired the name Maois, and in the French version - mayonnaise.

Cold sauces and seasonings of simple preparation have always been very popular on the Russian table - mustard, vinegar, horseradish, salad dressings, etc., and now - mayonnaise sauce (classic mayonnaise and Provencal mayonnaise). They especially suited the taste of meat and fish dishes, the abundance of which marked the festive feast.

Sour cream, traditional in Russian cuisine, was widely used as sauces; before serving, it was mixed according to taste and occasion with horseradish, various types of onions, herbs, garlic, dry ground herbs, salt, pepper, crushed yolks of hard-boiled eggs, etc.

Hot sauces were less represented. Infusions - onion, cabbage, cranberry, lingonberry and other berries, saffron, clove sauces, as well as sour cream, milk, pickle and mushroom sauces - this is a list of the main hot sauces characteristic of Russian cuisine of the 18th - 19th centuries.

Moreover, in the preparation of many dishes, the sauce was prepared not separately, but together with the main dish - meat or fish. This feature has been preserved in Russian cuisine to this day.

Hot sauces are usually served with hot dishes, cold sauces with cold dishes, appetizers and salads. But this division is quite arbitrary - cold sauces, mayonnaise or ketchup, are used with a wide variety of dishes.

The ancient sauce traditions of India and China are increasingly attracting the interest of European chefs. In numerous national cuisines you can find many tempting sauces, however, it must be recognized that their contribution to the treasury of sauce cooking is somewhat more modest, and French influence still dominates in European cuisine.

In today's restaurant cuisine, sauces have become an essential part of not only main courses, but also cold appetizers and desserts. Sauces can be used both as an integral component in the preparation of dishes and at the time of its presentation. In addition, using many sauces at once (usually two) before serving one dish makes it possible to obtain a contrast in flavor and color.

With the increase in the number of sauces, their role in cooking increased, and in the end the definitions of “sauce” and “French cuisine” became directly united, actually united.. Today, our culinary specialists have come into such close contact with European cuisine that they can demonstrate almost all the dishes of Russian In fact, cuisines cannot exist without French sauces. Both fillets and fish are cooked with sauces; Quite often, dishes that are ordinary at first glance acquire completely new shades of flavor. This happens thanks to sauces, the taste of which depends on the use of spices and aromatic herbs

1.1 Names of sauces

As new sauces were created, according to the tradition of French cuisine, they were named either by the names of the authors or by the names of celebrities - minister Colbert, writer Chateaubriand, composer Aubert, etc.; Most of the new sauces were given a name associated with a particular country or people. So French cuisine created Dutch, Portuguese, Italian, English, Bavarian, Polish and even Tatar and Russian sauces, but none of them have anything to do with the corresponding national cuisines. They reflect the French's fantastic ideas about other peoples. For example, Tatar sauce is named this way due to the fact that its structure includes pickles (gherkins) and capers, which the French believed Tatars eat. Russian sauce is named this way due to the fact that it contains a little caviar, although 90% of it consists of mayonnaise and lobster broth. The problem is exactly the same with sauces named after large foreign cities - Geneva, Bristol, Genoese, Venetian, Antique, etc. The situation is somewhat different with sauces bearing the names of French provinces and cities - Breton, Norman, Gascon, Provençal , Béarn, Lyon, Rouen, Bordeaux. Each of them actually uses products characteristic of the named provinces.

When the geographical nomenclature of names was largely exhausted, some sauces began to be assigned the names of professions, primarily respected ones - “musketeer”, “diplomat”, “financier”, but along with this, also professions that tasted of some “saltiness” - “ sailor", "miller's wife", "subrette". The names of sauces named after expensive fabrics seem even stranger to us - “velvet”, “muslin”, “silk”; This emphasized the delicate consistency of the sauce.

A certain part of the sauces was named in accordance with its true content, at least according to one of the defining components.

These are pepper, orange, chives, fine herb sauce, parsley, horseradish, mustard, sardine, orange, chocolate, vanilla, etc. In this sense, the “business” direction in cooking replaced the romantic one only at the end of the 19th century and developed especially in German countries; some French sauces were “rebaptized” and received simple and understandable national names (in German, Danish, Swedish, English cuisines ).

However, to this day, some names of French sauces cannot be translated. Often one word denotes entire concepts, for example remoulade sauce (From the varied verb remoulade - once again to renew, spur, light, add a stream of acid - a sauce made from vinegar, mustard, pepper, sunflower oil, eggs and salt). In addition, names that have a direct meaning, as a rule, are not translated in restaurant menus and cookbooks of different countries, but are preserved in their original French sound - poivrade sauce, jointville sauce, suprem sauce, etc.

1.2 Purpose in cooking

Currently, French cuisine contains more than 3 thousand sauces and cannot be satisfied without many of them, since they essentially form the special basis of French cooking, giving it a unique look and flavor.

Almost all French sauces have become international. All this caused a fairly contemptuous attitude of the French towards the culinary customs of other peoples. Even Voltaire mockingly noted that the British have 24 cult sects, but only one sauce, thereby trying to highlight the simplicity of British cuisine.

Of course, sauces are not a criterion for assessing the degree of development of cooking, since a real sign of the development of a kitchen seems to be the abundance of scientific and technical methods used by it for processing and flavoring food material, and the use of sauces is only one of these methods. Nevertheless, their professional production and use significantly enriches the kitchen in its entirety.

Firstly, sauces make food more attractive according to appearance, pleasant according to thickness, taste and smell.

Secondly, they help diversify the range of dishes made from the same raw materials.

Indeed, the same boiled fish or meat, when served with different (or rather, different) sauces, produces dishes that differ in taste.

And finally, thirdly, the use of seasoning sauces makes it easier and faster to prepare a variety of dishes using the same base.

This is the time to make one important caveat. Let's not confuse sauces with those gravies that are sometimes served in canteens and about which they say: “Please, no gravy for me.” A mixture of overcooked flour, fat and salty broth without any spices or vegetable seasonings discredits sauces. Not only does it not provide variety, but it also standardizes all dishes to an even greater extent, not to mention the fact that it causes heartburn. The Corsican proverb about bad food can rightfully be applied to it: “If it doesn’t poison you, it will make you fatter.” For this or another reason, we use sauces in our home cooking little and reluctantly. And if they do, it is used incorrectly.

1.3 Sauce selection

In the old days in Rus', sauces were the name given to separately served dishes, usually boiled vegetables. There is an opinion that sauces are not typical for Russian cuisine and that they were borrowed from Western European cuisine. However, chronicles report that at that distant time Russian brews or vzvarts were available - thick, sourish sauces prepared on a plant basis, and sauces that were called flour and were divided into light and dark. “Do not pour gravy on the dish, but serve it separately,” they taught back under Peter I.

It has long been known that sauce is needed for every fried or boiled product - with it it becomes more fragrant, awakens hunger more and promotes better separation of gastric juice. The role of sauces in cooking is difficult to overestimate. An impeccable sauce has the ability to correct all the shortcomings of the prepared dish, and a bad one can hopelessly overshadow it.

Of course, choosing a sauce in a cookbook is always difficult. Sonorous, yet unusual names either scare away or do not at all interpret the taste and comparative qualities of the sauces. In addition, it may seem impossible at first glance to master the different methods of making them.

In order to create fascinating color schemes for dishes, it is often necessary to correct colorful colors using natural dyes. For example, you can darken the marinade with a small amount of caramelized sugar or instant cappuccino (the taste of the latter is practically not felt). The soy marinade also has a dark tone. If necessary, you can clarify the marinade with sour cream or cream. Cilantro, grated with oil, will give the sauce a yellowish-greenish color. By adding a little saffron, turmeric or curry to the marinade, the chef will color it dark yellow, red and yellow. Wine vinegar evaporated to 2/3 has a darkish tone.

The classification of sauces is relative. The same marinade can simultaneously belong to many groups. Sauces are classified according to various characteristics. For example, according to technological processes, sauces can be classified into sauces with thickeners and without thickeners. Thickeners are not only flour sauteing, polysaccharide and egg yolks. They may include cream, bread and bakery products, vegetable and fruit purees, legume purees, whipped butter, and including blood (in dishes containing stewed hare or rabbit). In addition, sauces can be prepared without thickeners if, for example, boiled broth is used as a base.

The following eight methods allow you to make any sauce.

1. Sauce made from meat juice. Elementary sauce from meat juice is obtained by frying large pieces of meat with a huge amount of fat. This juice is accumulated from the frying pan into a saucepan, without allowing it to bake, slightly boiled (3-4 minutes) and exactly half or a third of the whipped cream is added to it according to the volume before serving. As usual, no aromatic additives are added to such sauces, but it is always better to add a little garlic or pepper, dill, marjoram, and parsley.

2. Flour sauces. They are prepared with meat broth, fat and spices using 2 methods.

I. The flour is liquefied in a portion of cool broth, added with stirring to the broth boiling in a saucepan, cooked for 3-5 minutes. Spices are added to this hot intermediate sauce - depending on the dish with which the marinade will be served. Of course, meat spices go with meat - marjoram, garlic, pepper; with fish - bay leaf, parsley, black pepper.

II. Next, take equal amounts of butter and flour. The butter is dissolved in a saucepan, flour is mixed into it, a lump or “cake” is formed, which is poured with warm broth (I) and cooked over normal heat for 5-6 minutes. up to the absolute unraveling of the “cake” with constant stirring and rubbing.

A. “Baked” sauces

They are prepared from broth (meat, vegetable, fish), flour, fat and spices with the addition of a small amount of salt - 0.5-1 teaspoon per 0.5 liter of sauce. The ratio of broth, flour and fat in these sauces is 10:1:1. The broth can be replaced with milk, cream, flour - crushed breadcrumbs (in this case, they are taken twice as much according to weight as flour). There are 2 methods for making baked sauces. In the first method, the butter is dissolved in a saucepan, flour is added, stirred immediately, heated until it turns yellowish, and over time, liquid (broth) is added, followed by milk, stirring all the time. When it thickens, add spices, then cool a little and add seasonings. This is how bechamel is prepared - one of the main sauces, on the basis of which many others can be obtained by changing the aromatic component. Real bechamel sauce consists of 100 grams of butter, 1 tablespoon of flour, 2 tablespoons of meat or chicken broth, 1 glass of cream or Mozhaisk milk, 1 pinch of nutmeg (grate the nut 5-6 times), a little less than 0. 5 teaspoons salt.

In another method, the flour is replaced with grated breadcrumbs, dissolved thirty minutes before cooking in a small amount of water (broth, milk), and then loosened or fried butter and the remaining liquid (broth) are added and cooked for about half an hour. Next, all kinds of food-flavoring and aromatic seasonings are added, including wine, lemon nectar, tomato puree, olives, capers, mushrooms and various ground spices.

Many well-known sauces in this category in their own traditional version become expensive. These are Cumberland, Bordeaux sauces, and Robert sauce. They contain red wine, onions, mushrooms, soy, and mustard. The only difference is in the scale of these products. So, 0.5 kg. Bordeaux sauce contains almost 400 grams of mushrooms, the meat juice of the lumbar lobe of a bull enters the structure of Cumberland sauce, etc. All of the above “aristocratic” sauces belong to the dark and very unsafe ones.

B. Light “baked” sauces

In order to prepare light sauces, vegetable broths, milk and cream are often used as water along with meat and fish broths. Vegetable decoctions are usually cooked from peeled vegetables, for example broth of celery, carrots, parsley, etc. Moreover, the saturation of vegetables per amount of water in decoctions is much greater than in soups. Particularly common, in addition to those mentioned, are decoctions of turnips, leeks, and tomatoes. Vegetables are cut into small pieces and simmered over low heat for 1 hour (per 1 liter of water - 10 grams of salt, 0.5 kg of vegetables). Horseradish, curry, mustard, capers, parsley, dill and various spices - pepper, ginger, herbs - are added to sauces prepared in vegetable broths. Depending on what seasonings add the fundamental taste to the sauce, it is called dill, mustard, parsley, etc.

3. Liezonated sauces. If you add a fluffed egg or part of it (yolk or white) to the flour sauce, then you will get the so-called lezonated (leaved) marinade. The beaten egg is introduced either cool (white), or first mixed with a small amount of butter and the finished sauce, and then this composition is introduced into the main mass of the sauce in a saucepan and, stirring constantly, heated until thickened, but not to a boil. Horseradish, lemon nectar, red pepper, and thyme are added to iced sauces.

Take the bechamel marinade you just made or half of it and season without heating with the following mixture: 2 yolks, 1 tablespoon of cream, 1 teaspoon of butter. Add 1 more tablespoon of horseradish. Then combine it with unflavored béchamel sauce. You will both comprehend the difference in taste of different types of sauces and get a taste for making them.

4. True, or semi-noble and generous sauces. True, or generous, are called sauces, the main components of which are butter and eggs, while flour is absent entirely or almost entirely. These sauces are divided into hot and cold. In addition, various food components and spices are added to them, and they are often named according to the main ingredient.

Some of these sauces contain a small, almost symbolic (1-2 teaspoons) amount of flour. These are Hollandaise, mousseline, béarnaise, jointville, and fine herb sauces. Semi-noble sauces are prepared as follows. Flour is diluted in broth (liquid) and boiled for 7-8 minutes over low heat, stirring. Then remove the saucepan from the heat, add the butter and, as soon as it dissolves, add a well-beaten egg while gradually stirring, then add lemon juice, salt, wine and other ingredients to the sauce.

Before serving, this sauce can be heated in a water bath with continuous whisking.

One of the essential features of semi-noble and especially noble sauces is that the eggs and butter for them are well beaten separately until white and then combined. At the same time, it is important that the degree of whipping of both products is not only very good, but also absolutely identical - only then will they readily combine: the same degree of whipping of all components is the most important condition for creating a sauce. Only after this spices and seasonings are added to the sauce.

In order to make hot noble sauces, eggs are first beaten, broth, salt, acids are added to them and, continuing to fluff, they are placed in a steam bath, after which, with gradual stirring, white-pounded butter is added in small pieces. If the marinade thickens, add aromatic herbs - parsley, root vegetables, etc.

Another manufacturing method is also possible. First, rub the oil and add it to a hot, but not hot, steam bath, and when it is warm and fluffed well enough, add fluffed eggs and then, with constant beating of this mixture, add lemon nectar, a few fluffed cream and spices according to selection.

Mayonnaise, mixed using the cold method, without heating, also belongs to noble sauces. The true prepared sauce is so appetizing that it cannot be compared in any way with the ready-made sauce sold in jars, to which flour, vinegar and mustard are added, which do not in any way enter the structure of real mayonnaise. Try to make mayonnaise in person at least once in accordance with absolutely all the laws, not forgetting about small secrets, without knowing which the sauce will not succeed.

Firstly, the oil must be at room temperature; the eggs, even very fresh ones, should also not be cool. Incorrect temperature of the ingredients is a very common factor in mayonnaise not whipping. Secondly, the yolk must be separated from the white very carefully, even extremely carefully - not even the thinnest film that restrains the yolk shell, and even more so the white, should get into it (see the recipe for making mayonnaise).

5. Sweet sauces. Sweet sauces are served with third courses - puddings, babkas, semolina porridge, etc. They are poured over cakes and sandwiched between waffles. There are two types of sweet sauces.

The first type includes creams made from milk, cream and eggs with the addition of sugar, sometimes starch and spices - most often vanilla, and sometimes cardamom, cloves, cinnamon or chocolate, coffee, cocoa.

The second type includes fruit sauces made from eggs, fruits, fruit juices or purees, marmalade with added sugar, starch, and sometimes a small amount of wine or cream. The most commonly prepared sauces are orange, lemon, apple, and apricot.

Cream. Boil milk (0.5 l) together with vanilla. Beat two eggs with 50 g of sugar and 1 teaspoon of potato flour, add 2 - 3 tbsp. spoons of hot milk, mix and pour everything into boiled milk, stirring and whisking well. Bring to a boil over low heat.

Fruit sauce. Stir corn starch (1 tablespoon) into a packet of cream (250 g) and bring to a boil while stirring. Beat the egg with sugar until white, mix with grated zest and combine with cream, as in the previous recipe. When the sauce thickens and almost reaches the boiling point, remove it from the heat and, whisking and stirring continuously, add the juice of two oranges and one lemon, from which the zest has previously been removed.

6. Transcaucasian sauces based on fruit and nuts. Sauces of this category, more common in Georgian cuisine, deliberately differ from European ones both in composition and in their own technology. They contain no flour, no eggs, no butter. As a result, Georgian sauces differ significantly in taste, smell, and piquancy from the generally accepted sauces of international cuisine. In fact, these are generous sauces made from natural foods. The mainstay of Georgian sauces is sour berry and fruit juices or purees from tkemali, sloe, pomegranate, blackberries, barberries, dogwoods with a huge content of pectin, which promotes the formation of thickened sauces when boiling these juices or purees (1 kilogram of plums is boiled down to 250 grams of sauce) . Mint, garlic, dill, red pepper, and cilantro are added to the boiled puree. In addition, nut sauces are very widespread, where the base is crushed nuts, brought to a watery state. At the same time, the oil of the nuts is separated, the mass is diluted with broth or fruit juice, and a marinade is formed in this base with the addition of garlic and a large amount of aromatic herbs - cilantro, basil, tarragon, savory, parsley, dill, red pepper, mint. The satsibeli marinade can serve as an excellent example.

7. Sauces based on lactic acid. Sauces of this category are common in the Near and Middle East, Transcaucasia, especially in Armenia and partly in Azerbaijan, and also in Central Asia and Kazakhstan. The basis for sauces in this category is the fermented milk product - ayran (matsoni), as well as in itself, and especially its derivatives - suzma (strained katyk) and kurt (dried suzma with salt and red pepper). In Armenia, the composition of kurt is similar to chor ten - dried buttermilk. Both kurt and chor ten are ground into a special powder, thinned with meat broth or boiled water until the consistency of sour cream and seasoned with aromatic herbs (green onions, garlic) or melted butter. Sauces are prepared with suzma in exactly the same way - it is diluted even easier. Fermented milk-based sauces are used either like European ones - for meat or other warm vegetable dishes, or as independent cool dishes and as a pouring into soups.

These sauces are prepared very simply and quickly (in 3-5 minutes) if you have ready-made katyk (matsoni) or kurt in the house. Of absolutely all the sauces, these are the most necessary for health; they are perfectly absorbed by the body.

Most sauces are prepared quickly - in 5-7 minutes, only some complex cold and hot sauces - in almost 1 hour, but more - in a maximum of 20-30 minutes. At the same time, they require constant attention in period of cooking or constant stirring and beating.

Making sauces is one of the additional and at the same time one of the final stages of preparing dishes, since the essence of sauces is to be a spice for each dish.

The preparation of sauces as a combined complex seasoning also involves the art of using wine and spices in dishes, the ability to salt and sweeten, which in itself also constitutes a separate branch of culinary skill.

8. Sauce - dough glaze. It remains to be noted about an extremely rarely used, nevertheless very catchy and appetizing sauce used in confectionery. This is a sauce-dough used as a coating for the purpose of spraying various products - from muffins to cakes.

They do it this way. Whisk yellow egg white (from 1-2 eggs) with sugar (1-2 tablespoons), add about the same amount of flour to make a viscous mass, and then over time begin to dilute it until it becomes more watery and pourable. small (half a teaspoon each) additions of sour cream (kefir) and vegetable oil (walnut, apricot, corn, sesame), all the time rubbing the composition until the consistency of a thick sauce. Before rubbing butter and sour cream into the dough piece, add a little soda (on the edge of a knife) and alcohol (half a teaspoon of vodka or cognac). The resulting sauce-dough is poured into the actually finished product (for example, a cupcake, baba, baked goods), pulled out of the oven after 20-30 minutes. baking and put it back into the oven to bake the glaze sauce for another 7-15 minutes, depending on the size and nature of the product.

Sauce - glaze does not give a hard coating to the product. It prevents a hard crust from forming and burning on top. According to its thickness (after the product cools), it resembles baked cream, with a pleasant viscosity, light, delicate, and flexible. It is allowed to give him various aromatic additives in order to increase the taste, smell and attractiveness of the product: citrus zest, sultanas, nuts, vanilla, star anise, cinnamon, etc. Due to the presence of protein in the sauce - glaze, these additives always quickly soften, adhere perfectly and completely “fused” with the coating and with the key product, in contrast to the usual “sprinkling” of confectionery products with nuts, sweet powder and strict (fragile) glaze. Each of these varieties has its own distinctive features of the composition of the base material and production method. In this way, it is necessary to master at least 8 methods, in order to be able to produce not only European, but also a number of oriental sauces, of which French cuisine has absolutely no idea. In practice, it is enough to master only 4 methods, thus (just as the methods for producing the first two types of simple sauces are repeated in more complex ones, and the three previous types of sauces, although they have different formulas, are prepared in virtually the same way by a simple automatic combination (beating) goods.

1.4 About sauces

Thus, the sauce is not an independent food, but a spice, which, as mentioned earlier, none of the self-respecting cooks can do without. This is a complex composition consisting of a base, for the production of which various meat, vegetable, fish or mushroom broths, tomatoes or tomato paste are used for tomato sauces.

To thicken the sauce, flour, butter, sour cream or cream, milk, and starch are added to the base. And in order for the sauce to acquire a special, unique taste and aroma, spices are added to the sauces. Their list can be very long. The most famous of them: pepper, cloves, cinnamon, vanilla, ginger, parsley, dill, onion, garlic, tarragon.

Each sauce has its own purpose, but in this regard, all sauces can be divided into two groups. Sauces of the first group are served separately and added to the finished dish. This includes the ketchups and dressings that are so familiar to us. There is a great variety of such sauces.

Tomato-based sauces, as well as various dressings, are very popular. Each national cuisine gives preference to certain spices, which are included in sauces and impart a special national flavor to the dish. Often national sauces contain pieces of olives, pickled cucumbers, paprika, onions, and garlic. Such additives give the sauce a unique consistency and special taste, which is associated in our minds not only with culinary preferences, but also with the cultural traditions of the corresponding people.

The second group includes sauces that are added to food during its preparation. These are, first of all, soy sauces, which are freely used in the East and largely determine the taste of dishes prepared in the traditions of oriental cuisine.

World cooking is so diverse that if we put together all the recipes for cooking dishes that exist on our planet, the gastronomic secrets used in the kitchens of every country in the world, then it’s time to talk about the real science - “World Cooking”! And it is the sauces prepared according to traditional recipes that give originality to one or another cuisine of the world. In oriental cuisine it is primarily soy sauce, in America it is tomato sauce, in Europe it is mayonnaise. Of course, sauces are not a criterion for assessing the level of development of cooking, because the real indicator of the development of a kitchen is the wealth of technological methods used by it for processing food raw materials, and the use of sauces is only one of these methods. And, nevertheless, skillful preparation and use of sauces significantly enriches the cuisine as a whole.

Choosing a sauce in a cookbook is always difficult. Sonorous but incomprehensible names either scare away or say nothing about the taste and comparative qualities of the sauces. Moreover, it seems impossible to remember the different ways of preparing them. Meanwhile, everything is extremely simple, you just have to see a certain system in a conglomerate of thousands of recipes, know the little secrets of cooking and, most importantly, try to prepare one of the good sauces with your own hands at least once.

According to the liquid base, sauces based on broths (bone, meat and bone, fish, mushroom), sour cream, milk, melted butter, vegetable oil and vinegar (mainly cold sauces) are recognized. Sauces also include oil mixtures and sweet sauces. Sweet sauces differ in taste and production methods from meat, fish, egg-butter, etc.

All sauces can be divided into two groups: with thickeners and without thickeners.

As thickeners in our current cuisine, we mainly use flour and polysaccharides, including modified ones. In French cuisine, in order to thicken sauces, they easily use the method of powerful evaporation of bases (broth, cream). Recently, in order to give sauces the necessary thickness and stability while preserving, vegetable and fruit and berry purees have been used in worldwide practice. Purees from carrots, beets, white cabbage, and red currants have the highest emulsifying and stabilizing capabilities.

Based on consistency, sauces are divided into liquid (for serving with dishes and stewing), medium thickness (for baking), thick (for stuffing).

Based on color, sauces are divided into red and white (meat sauces).

A variety of raw materials are used for sauces: premium and 1st grade wheat flour, bones, root vegetables (carrots, parsley, celery), onions, tomato puree or tomato paste, pickled and pickled cucumbers, cooking fats, butter and margarine, vegetable oil, vinegar, citric acid, spices, herbs, wine, etc.

It is better to use wine or fruit vinegar. It can be replaced with citric acid or lemon juice, and in some cases with acidic foods such as sorrel, rhubarb, and barberry.

Only exclusively natural grape wine is better (red and white, dry and semi-dry). Before adding to the marinade, drinks must be prepared. To do this, it is poured into a well-heated frying pan (saucepan) and brought close to a boil, while the wine alcohol disappears, and the remaining components provide the sauces with a special shade and aroma.

The taste and smell of sauces is given by a variety of herbs, spices and seasonings: peppercorns (black, fragrant), crushed pepper (black, red, white, curry), bay leaf, cardamom, nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, ginger, mustard, vanilla and vanilla granulated sugar, etc. Most of the spices are added to the sauce within 10-15 minutes. until ready, bay leaf - 5 minutes, and chopped pepper - into the finished sauce.

Ready sauces are stored on a steam table under a lid at a temperature of 75-80C. A shell can form on the surface of the sauce, which reduces its quality. In order to avoid this unnecessary phenomenon, sauces are “pinched” with butter or margarine, that is, not very large pieces of fat are placed on their surface.

Semi-finished products for many sauces include broths, mealy sautes, sautéed vegetables and tomato puree.

1.5 Requirements for the quality of sauces. Shelf life

The quality of the sauce is determined according to consistency, color, taste, and smell. When assessing the properties of sauces with fillers (onion, onion with gherkins, etc.), the shape of the cut and the amount of filler are taken into account.

Hot sauces with flour must have the thickness of watery sour cream (liquid sauces), be elastic, homogeneous, without lumps of brewed flour and parts of ungrated vegetables. Medium-thick sauces used for baking have the consistency of thick sour cream. A thick white marinade for stuffing should look like sticky semolina porridge.

Vegetables included in the sauce as a filler must be finely and neatly chopped, evenly distributed in the sauce, and soft. There should be no film on the surface of the sauce.

Hollandaise sauce should have a uniform consistency, without grains or flakes of coagulated protein. There should be no lumps of fat on the surface of the sauce.

In Polish and rusk sauces, the oil should be transparent. The eggs for the Polish sauce are coarsely chopped.

There should be no oil on the surface of mayonnaise; consistency is homogeneous.

Vegetables in marinades should be neatly chopped and soft; Finely grate the horseradish for the sauce.

The color of the sauce should be characteristic of each group of sauces: red - from brown to brownish-red; white - from white to slightly grayish; tomato - red. Milk and sour cream sauces - from white to light cream color, sour cream with tomato - pink, mushroom - brown, marinade with tomato - orange-red, mayonnaise - white with a yellow tint. The color depends on the products used and the technological process followed.

The taste and smell of the sauce are the main indicators of its quality. Broth-based sauces are characterized by a pronounced taste of meat, fish, mushrooms with the smell of sautéed vegetables and seasonings.

The main red sauce and its derivatives should have a meaty taste with a sweet and sour aftertaste and the smell of onions, carrots, parsley, pepper, and bay leaves.

White sauces based on meat broth should taste like broths with a slight smell of white roots and onions, with a slightly sour taste. The taste of tomato sauce is pronounced sweet and sour.

Fish sauces should have a sharp, specific smell of fish, white roots and spices.

Mushroom sauces - pronounced mushroom aroma.

Milk and sour cream sauces should taste like milk and sour cream. You cannot use burnt milk or very sour sour cream to prepare them.

Unacceptable defects in sauces with flour include: the aroma of raw flour and stickiness, the taste and smell of burnt flour, the presence of a colossal amount of salt, the taste and aroma of raw tomato puree.

Egg-butter sauces and sugar marinade have a slightly sour taste and aroma of butter.

Marinades must have a sour-piquant taste, the aroma of vinegar, vegetables and spices. The taste of raw tomato puree and very sour taste are unacceptable.

Marinade sauce and its derivatives should not have a bitter aftertaste or be very spicy, and horseradish sauce with vinegar should not be bitter or slightly spicy.

Store basic hot sauces in a water bath at temperatures up to 80°C for 3 to 4 hours. Basic sauces can be stored for up to 3 days. To do this, they are cooled to room temperature and placed in a refrigerator at a temperature of 0-5°C. Sour cream sauces are stored at a temperature of 75°C for no more than 2 hours from the moment of preparation. Milk liquid sauce - hot at a temperature of 65-70°C for no more than 1-1.5 hours, since during long-term storage it darkens due to caramelization of milk sugar. Thick milk sauce should be stored refrigerated at 5°C for no more than 24 hours. Medium-thick milk sauces cannot be stored; they must be prepared immediately before use. Polish and rusk sauces can be stored for up to 2 hours. Oil mixtures are stored in the refrigerator for several days. To increase shelf life, they are wrapped in parchment, cellophane or plastic wrap. Industrially produced mayonnaise is stored at 5°C for 3 months. Home-made mayonnaise and salad dressings are stored in the refrigerator for 1-2 days, marinades and horseradish sauce are stored chilled for 2-3 days.

Chapter 2. Mastering signature sauces

2.1 Pasta sauces

What in our country is usually called pasta, noodles and spaghetti throughout society is briefly and simply called pasta. In fact, pasta is a dough for making various types of pasta products. Such names as fettuccine, tagliatelle, pappardelle or capellini are unusual to our ears; these are just individual types from a very large classification of pasta. Of course, almost everyone will think, pasta or pasta, what’s the difference, because changing the name will not change the taste in any way. And they will be unfaithful! Pasta has a special culture of consumption; in Italy it is a full-fledged independent dish, but in our country it is just a side dish for cutlets, which we heartily top with ketchup bought at the shopping center. There are special sauces for pasta, thanks to which you can radically change the taste of this legendary dish.

Italians believe that the soul of their national dish is sauces. The style of the dish largely depends on the success of the pasta sauces. At the same time, different sauces are suitable for different types of pasta, so it is believed that the shorter the paste, the thicker the sauce should be, and the finer it is, the lighter the marinade should be. The attitude towards pasta sauces is so serious that Italians prepare them personally, by hand and only from the freshest ingredients. In addition, it is not customary to serve pasta without sauce. There is no person who wouldn’t like pasta, even if one day you didn’t like this dish, just change the sauce and try it again.

Pasta sauces are a real work of art; they have the potential to make a dish very soft, special, spicy, add the most varied shades of taste and aroma, and effortlessly change the taste of pasta beyond recognition. It is believed that the ancestor of absolutely all pasta sauces was a filling prepared from fresh tomatoes with bronze-olive oil and basil; a little later they began to add cheese to it, and the result was one of the most famous sauces in the world. Following tomato, white, meat, cheese, mushroom and other types of sauces began to appear. Whatever pasta sauce you prefer, virtually all of them will contain bronzed olive oil, grated cheese, finely chopped garlic, basil, oregano, nutmeg, black pepper and chili pepper.

2.2 Sauces for meat

Of course, every meat is very appetizing if it is cooked correctly. However, even the most delicious piece seems to lack something. Undoubtedly, just the sauce that is begging for it, and stubbornly at that. What kind of marinade to serve with meat, since there are so many of them that you can’t try it in a lifetime. Here it’s time to rely on your insight and taste passions, since almost all gravies go well with meat. However, it is necessary to understand that for fried or fatty meat, hot or pickled (sweet and sour) sauces based on berry or fruit puree - cranberries, cherries, lingonberries, cherry plums, apples, or with the addition of vinegar or lemon juice are more suitable. Creamy, sour cream, mustard, and tomato can be served with lean or boiled meat. Creamy or white sauces are very good for roasting meat in the oven.

If the sauce is prepared from fruits or berries, they should be boiled in advance until completely soft, and then crushed with a mixer or blender so that the thickness of the gravy becomes homogeneous. If the sauces are prepared on the basis of an oil-flour mixture, then the flour should be calcined in a dry frying pan or fried in oil, and then mixed with liquid - broth, milk, cream, tomato juice.

2.3 Sauces for fish

Sauces for fish make it possible to make changes to boiled fish and many other fish dishes. For fatty fish, sauces with a pronounced sour taste are suitable, softening the taste of fat. Sauces that contain butter, eggs, cream, and sour cream are more suitable for skinny fish. Sour cream, onion and Dutch make each type of fish delicious.

Many fish sauces are based on fish broths. Food scraps remaining when preparing fish for frying (head, remains, fins, skin) should be used to cook a small amount of broth, in which you can make an appetizing marinade for the fish.

2.4 Sauces for salads

The sauce can make the lightest and simplest salad a real masterpiece, a unique and inimitable dish. The long and picturesque chronicle of salad sauces begins in ancient society and continues to this day. It has been established that sauces not only emphasize the natural style of products, but also protect the useful materials of its parts from destruction, enveloping food products with a thin film of fat. Vitamins, protected in a fantastic way from the influence of air, do not collapse in any way. The dish remains useful for a long time. Including a few drops of vegetable oil, added to the salad immediately after cutting, makes it possible to save more vitamin C.

Salad dressings and sauces are divided into two types. Some of them are produced on the basis of a mixture of oil and acidic foodstuffs. This can be different types of vinegar, lemon or berry juice and vegetable oil. Most often they are used for simple summer vegetable salads with an abundance of greens. Another option: thick sauces, the most high in calories, made from cream, sour cream, and egg yolks. Together with them, fillet, poultry, fish or winter boiled vegetables are easier to digest. The base of any dressing, as a rule, is vegetable oil or fermented milk products. Additives can be (mustard, vinegar, lemon or other fruit juices, honey, finely chopped vegetation, various spices. Often a small amount of alcohol is used, as a rule, this is homemade wine with a deep taste. Just a few movements - and an excellent pouring will completely change the taste dishes, makes it more appetizing and flavorful.

An old Russian sauce for meat recipe. Coursework: Sauces of Russian and foreign cuisine

Cooking Russian sauce

Cold sauces

Hot brews

Herbs and spices in modern Russian cuisine

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