Chicken broth according to Heston Blumenthal's method. Heston's genius chicken broth

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Chicken broth according to Heston Blumenthal's method. Heston's genius chicken broth - how to make chicken broth

Hi all! Ciao a tutti!

I want to tell you about another experiment, the result of which shocked me! This time I made chicken broth using the method Heston Blumenthal (Heston Blumenthal). It must be said that this gifted chef is one of the few holders of three Michelin stars in the UK and apologists for the scientific approach to cooking. He creates smart and interesting recipes like: super flavorful rich chicken broth. I would like to note right away that the “genius” of this broth is not my merit, I just used all of Heston’s secrets.

So we will need: chicken wings (I had ½ kg), skimmed milk powder (2-3 tbsp), 1 carrot, 2 onions and water. Heston also recommends adding fresh mushrooms, but I didn't.

Everything ingenious is simple– we take chicken wings, they are cheap and have a lot of gelatin. Roll them thoroughly in dry milk - this is necessary to reveal the taste of the chicken as a result of the Maillard reaction (when baked, the proteins react with sugar, forming an aromatic crispy crust). By adding milk powder, we increase the amount of protein and sugar, and in skim milk powder they are 36 and 52%, respectively.

Now put the wings in the oven at 200C until they turn golden. It took me about 30 minutes to get these tanned guys:

For further cooking, it is better to use a pressure cooker, but I don’t have one, so I started cooking in a heavy saucepan with a thick bottom and a tight lid. Transfer the wings, add carrots and onions:

Fill with cold (!) water. Heston also recommends splashing some water into the container where the chicken was baked, using a spatula to scoop up all the burnt bits, let it boil and add it all to the pan. If you have a pressure cooker, the cooking time is 2 hours. I cooked for a little 5 hours on low heat - I just folded everything in, poured it in, covered it with a heavy lid and forgot for five hours! Then I cooled it, carefully strained it, and here it is - a brilliant broth with the concentrated taste of real fried chicken! And note that I didn’t use a drop of oil:

I immediately poured part of the broth into small containers and ice cube trays and froze it, but I put this ½ liter jar in the refrigerator. This amount was enough for two 3-liter pans of aromatic soup!!! By the way, after standing in the refrigerator, the broth gelled perfectly:

I think that good housewives do not need to be told what else such a strong broth can be useful for, how many sauces, cereals, vegetables and a variety of dishes can be prepared using it.

This is the most delicious broth I've ever had, and I'm a big fan of broths! I highly recommend making it for you too!

Bon Appetit everyone! Buon appetito a tutti!

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Cooking fats: Risotto is a regional dish, and depending on the region, Italians use either olive oil or butter to fry the rice, onions and garlic. I fry rice and onions with garlic and bone marrow because it gives the risotto an unrivaled richness of flavor.

Cooking liquid: Don't despair, you don't need to cook the broth to cook risotto. Yes, purity advocates insist on chicken broth because chicken broth doesn't overshadow the flavor of the rice. However, you can use vegetable broth from whatever vegetables you have, or water mixed with juices left over from frying meat, canned broth, tomato juice, or (oh, the horror!) a bouillon cube.

To enhance the flavor, trimmings from the main product used in the risotto can be added to the cooking water. Whatever you use, remember that the liquid should be at the boiling point, but not bubbling. You need to add it to the rice little by little.

Cooking time: Many recipes call for 18 minutes to cook risotto, but this is very approximate. The cooking time depends on many factors, for example, the length of time the rice is fried, the type of rice, the amount of rice, the speed of stirring, etc. It also depends on your personal taste - whether you prefer al dente rice or well-cooked rice.

Under no circumstances should the liquid itself boil, but only be at the boiling point. To get a good risotto, you need to cook the rice so that the process is a combination of the rice absorbing liquid and gradually releasing and breaking down the starch. On the one hand, the liquid should not evaporate quickly. On the other hand, if the temperature of the liquid is not high enough, the starch will not be released well.

It is very important that when you remove the risotto from the heat, the consistency of the dish is thinner than expected. After beating the butter into the finished risotto, leave the risotto in the pan to “rest” for 2-3 minutes - the hot rice will absorb excess liquid.

Finishing touches: The traditional name for this finishing process is “mantecare,” where the butter and Parmesan are whisked into the risotto and the risotto is allowed to finish by removing the pan from the heat. The main thing here is to continue intensive stirring, which will release additional amounts of starch, thereby creating the necessary viscosity and oiliness of the dish. You can also add lightly whipped cream or mascarpone cream cheese, olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper to the risotto.

And most importantly, before you start preparing risotto, prepare your work area. Have all the ingredients on hand so you can concentrate on the risotto itself.

RISOTTO – BASIC RECIPE
BASIC RISOTTO

This is the simplest risotto in terms of taste, but it is best to start mastering the cooking technology with it.

Serves 4

400 g rice for risotto
150 ml white wine
100 ml vermouth (preferably Noilly Prat)
2 onions, very finely chopped
1-2 cloves garlic, puree
1 liter of broth/water/any liquid to taste
75 ml olive oil

75g parmesan
1 d.l. lightly whipped heavy cream (or mascarpone cream cheese)
salt and pepper to taste

Pour the cooking liquid into the pan and bring to a boil over very low heat. In a separate thick-walled pan, heat the olive oil well and add the rice.

Mix thoroughly and do not stop stirring. The rice will begin to crackle and a subtle nutty aroma will appear. At this point add the onion, garlic and 25 g of butter. Reduce heat to very low and cook for another 5 minutes, continuing to stir and making sure each grain of rice is coated with a layer of olive oil.

Pour in white wine and, stirring, reduce by half. Add vermouth and reduce again, stirring constantly. Now you can start adding liquid, in small portions using a ladle. As soon as the rice has absorbed the liquid, add the next ladle of liquid, stirring continuously. Under no circumstances should the rice stick to the walls or bottom of the pan. After about 15 minutes, taste the rice to see if it is done. If the rice is not yet cooked, add another ladle of liquid. By the way, if at any moment it seems to you that the broth for cooking is running out, immediately boil some more water (you can add it to a saucepan with low-boiling broth and bring it to the boiling point). When the risotto is ready, whisk in the grated Parmesan and remaining butter. If desired, add lightly whipped cream, salt and pepper to taste. Let sit for a few minutes before serving.

RISOTTO WITH CAULIFLOWER
CAULIFLOWER RISOTTO

This risotto is delicious served topped with raw grated cauliflower and... cocoa powder. Honestly

Serves 6

Cauliflower veloute puree
Veloute of cauliflower

450 g cauliflower florets
200g raw cauliflower (grate and sprinkle over risotto before serving)
1 pinch curry powder
90 ml chicken broth (or water)
90 ml heavy cream
90 ml milk 2% fat

Decorate

2 tbsp. finely chopped chives

Boil the inflorescences in lightly salted boiling water for 3 minutes, drain in a colander, and rinse with ice water. Bring chicken broth to a boil, add cauliflower and curry powder and cook until soft.

Pour the contents of the pan into a food processor, let cool for 5 minutes, puree, gradually adding cream and milk. Rub the resulting puree through a fine sieve, pour into a saucepan, and simmer over very low heat for 5 minutes until the taste of raw cream goes away.

Prepare risotto according to the basic recipe, add cauliflower puree to it 2-3 minutes before the end of cooking. Beat the parmesan and butter into the risotto as per the main recipe, but without adding cream. Add finely chopped chives, salt well and add freshly ground black pepper. When serving, sprinkle with grated cauliflower and sprinkle with cocoa powder.

RISOTTO WITH PEAS
PEA RISOTTO

If you are lucky and find fresh peas straight from the garden, then nothing can be better. Unfortunately, almost everyone has to use store-bought “fresh” peas, the taste of which leaves much to be desired - the journey of peas from the garden to the store takes from 3 to 7 days. But don't despair - frozen peas (particularly from Birds Eye) are frozen within a few hours of picking and retain their freshness and sweetness. There's no shame in frozen green peas—most professional chefs use them regularly. A few minutes before the end of cooking, add to the risotto cooked according to the main recipe, pea puree prepared according to the recipe given below (at the rate of a tablespoon per serving), beat in Parmesan, a piece of butter and a little lightly whipped cream, salt and pepper. Before serving, you can add some chopped bacon, fried in olive oil with shallots, or some finely chopped fresh mint to the risotto.

Serves 4

Pea mash

400g frozen green peas (Birds Eye if possible, but not petits pois – pea skins will make the puree grainy)
75 g unsalted butter
salt and pepper to taste

Thaw peas - do not cook. Transfer the defrosted peas to a food processor and puree at full speed for at least 5 minutes. If you have a vegetable grater, that's even better, because the pulp goes through the press, but the skins don't.

The food processor, unfortunately, copes with the task unsatisfactorily. After 5 minutes of grinding, it is recommended to pass the pea puree through a fine (silk) sieve.

Transfer the puree into a small saucepan and heat it over very low heat, adding the butter. Salt and pepper to taste (I, for example, think that this puree needs a lot of salt and pepper). It is very important not to overheat the puree, otherwise it will become lumpy and lose its delicious bright green color. Let cool. If the puree is not intended for immediate consumption, cover it with plastic wrap so that it touches the surface of the puree to prevent it from drying out or discoloring. The puree can be stored in the refrigerator for 2-3 days. Before use, it must be carefully reheated over very low heat and before serving, add to the risotto according to the basic recipe, along with butter, salt and pepper. The technology of pickling has existed for centuries: not just keeping the product in salt, but rather pickling it in a brine solution, with the addition of spices, often acid and sometimes sugar.

SALTED DUCK
PETIT SALE OF DUCK

Serves 6

For the brine

2 liters of water
200 g table salt
10 cloves of garlic
half a lemon
half an orange
3 star anise

2 sprigs fresh rosemary
1 cinnamon stick
7 clove buds
1 pinch nutmeg

3 bay leaves
5 juniper berries

For the glaze

4 egg yolks
100 ml soy sauce
100 g honey

TWO FISH BRINE RECIPES

185 g salt
260 g sugar
3.75 liters of water

Pepper marinade

50 g black peppercorns
175 g green pepper

1 liter of water

To complete the dish

peanut oil, for frying

lemon slices

Preheat oven to 350 C. Bring all marinade ingredients to a boil; cool. Boil the fish in the marinade according to the above recipe, remove and dry. In a heatproof frying pan, heat a little peanut oil until smoking high. Dip the fish in flour, shake off and place in the pan, cut side down. After two minutes, turn over and fry the second cut, then transfer to the oven for another two minutes. Remove, place on a serving plate, and lightly sprinkle with lemon juice. Let sit for 1-2 minutes before serving. The technology of pickling has existed for centuries: not just keeping the product in salt, but rather pickling it in a brine solution, with the addition of spices, often acid and sometimes sugar.

Sometimes the brine is introduced directly into the product. Every day we come across all kinds of salted products, from ham and pickles to all kinds of smoked meats, salmon, salmon, herring, kept in brines with added sugar or all kinds of marinades of varying concentrations.

Now for some science. Salt and sugar solutions act as food preservatives through a process called osmosis, which is the movement of liquid in one direction through a semi-permeable membrane. In other words, the liquid seeps through a kind of filter film that allows only small molecules to pass through. The cell walls of fruits, vegetables and meat are such semi-permeable membranes.

The liquid contained in meat or fish contains, in addition to water, various salts and sugars. Their concentration is usually lower than the brine concentration. As a result, the water contained in the product turns into brine, as it is attracted to liquid with a higher content of salts or sugars. This process is called osmotic pressure, which removes water from the cells while preventing the cells from receiving water from the brine. Thus, salted meat or fish contains less water than unsalted meat and more fat relative to protein, which helps maintain its juiciness when cooked. Salting also neutralizes bacteria, making them unable to feed.

Salt has another effect - if its content in the brine is high enough, it prevents the destruction of enzymes (It is the destruction of enzymes that leads to the darkening of cuts on fruits and vegetables, for example). Finally, salt causes muscle tissue to swell and deeply soak meat or fish. Salt also retains moisture, making meat more juicy when cooked.

A piece of brined meat will retain its juiciness when cooked, making brining an excellent method for curing certain types of meat. Pork lends itself best to this, but you can salt beef, poultry and fish.

SALTED DUCK
PETIT SALE OF DUCK

You will need duck legs (with legs), but not very large ones.

Serves 6

12 duck legs (Gressingham duck if possible)

For the brine

2 liters of water
200 g table salt
10 cloves of garlic
half a lemon
half an orange
3 star anise
1 tbsp. ground coriander seed
2 sprigs fresh rosemary
1 cinnamon stick
7 clove buds
1 pinch nutmeg
1 small bunch fresh thyme
3 bay leaves
5 juniper berries
8 peas allspice

For the glaze

4 egg yolks
100 ml soy sauce
100 g honey

To prepare the brine, tie all the spices in a gauze bag, tie the spicy herbs in a bunch. Crush the garlic, place all the ingredients in a large saucepan, add water and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and let cool.

Place the duck leg on the board, skin side down. Using the blade of a knife, scrape the meat from the thigh bone at the joint, freeing the junction of the bones.

Holding the femur with one hand and the shin with the other, pull them towards each other until they crack. Now you can easily cut the joint at the junction, slightly separating the thigh.

Feel the cartilage with your fingers at the cut site of the shin and cut it out with a knife. This whole procedure sounds very complicated, especially if you have to do it for the first time, but I promise - by the third leg you will become an expert.

Having prepared the duck in this way, place the pieces in the cooled brine for 36 hours, then drain the contents of the pan in a colander, draining the brine, but preserving the spices. Rinse the duck under cold running water for half an hour.

Place the duck in a saucepan along with the reserved spices and herbs, add cold water, bring to a boil, reduce the heat to very low and simmer for an hour and a half, without allowing the water to boil.

If you have a kitchen thermometer, check the water temperature from time to time to ensure it does not exceed 60 C; If you don’t have a thermometer, don’t worry – remember, don’t let the water boil, even with the smallest bubbles. After an hour and a half, remove the pan from the heat and let the duck cool in the broth.

Mix the ingredients for the glaze and preheat the oven to 200 C. Place the duck in a heat-resistant frying pan or mold, pour water to a depth of 5 mm so that the pieces do not stick to the bottom or walls. Generously brush the duck with the glaze and place the pan in the oven for 25 minutes, brushing the duck with the glaze every 5-7 minutes until golden brown.

At the restaurant, I serve this dish with a sauce made from duck bones, spices and unroasted coffee beans, which give the sauce a peculiar oriental aroma. Spices can be varied to taste. This duck is very good with a side dish of boiled lentils or regular mashed potatoes.

TWO FISH BRINE RECIPES

These brine recipes are best used for fish. Fish salted according to the first recipe tastes best when boiled, and fish salted according to the second recipe is best fried or baked. Although the second recipe isn't really a brine at all, it works great with meaty fish like monkfish. If you decide to try cooking fish using these recipes, first try with the same type of fish to compare the results. It’s best to start, again, with meaty fish. The quantity of the indicated products is calculated for 1 kg of monk fish, cut into fillets across the bone - in other words, for 6 servings or for 4 servings (but for very hungry guests)

185 g salt
260 g sugar
3.75 liters of water

Mix all ingredients, bring to a boil, set aside. Cook the fish in a layer at a temperature of 45 C until the internal temperature of a piece of fish reaches 40-45 C (and again, I can’t resist stressing the importance of purchasing a kitchen thermometer - it’s inexpensive, but absolutely invaluable for the accuracy of heat treatment ). A piece of monk fish 3-4 cm thick will take approximately 25 minutes. That's all. Simple, isn't it? Serve with spicy horseradish sauce, to which has been added a little cream and some finely chopped fresh herbs of your choice. I prefer chives, parsley and chervil, and maybe a pinch of tarragon.

Pepper marinade

50 g black peppercorns
175 g green pepper
50 g lindi pepper (or “long” pepper, sold in Indian grocery stores)
1 liter of water

To complete the dish

peanut oil, for frying
plain flour (add a pinch of salt and ground black pepper)
lemon slices

Preheat oven to 350 C. Bring all marinade ingredients to a boil; cool. Boil the fish in the marinade according to the above recipe, remove and dry. In a heatproof frying pan, heat a little peanut oil until smoking high. Dip the fish in flour, shake off and place in the pan, cut side down. After two minutes, turn over and fry the second cut, then transfer to the oven for another two minutes. Remove, place on a serving plate, and lightly sprinkle with lemon juice. Let sit for 1-2 minutes before serving. For any variety of puree - be it the fluffy, silky creation of a professional chef (pommes puree), the beloved traditional English mash (mash) or crushed potatoes a la mode (crushed potatoes) - there is a preparation technology that not only brings excellent results, but also surprisingly comfortable.

At our restaurant, we had to make mashed potatoes twice a day and keep them warm in a double boiler before whisking in hot milk before serving. The whole process was very tedious, but there was also a lot of waste, because the leftover puree had to be thrown away, and I can’t stand this way of treating products.

In his book The Man Who Ate Everything, Jeffrey Steingarten devoted an entire chapter to mashed potatoes, explaining how potato powder manufacturers tried to reduce the glutinous starches in potatoes before drying. If this is not done, the starch concentrates during drying and turns into something like wallpaper glue. As a result, the industrial production of dry potato powder uses a process in which the potatoes are soaked in a large amount of water at room temperature, the starch begins to thicken, gel, and its molecules remain separated from each other during the final cooking, when the potatoes are immersed in salted boiling water until ready. As a result, the starch does not stick together in lumps.

The beauty of adapting this process for home use is that the base can be prepared in advance. Before serving, you just need to warm up the potatoes and beat in the milk to the desired consistency.

The difference between puree prepared using this method and puree prepared using the traditional method is noticeable even to a layman. The puree turns out fluffy and completely without stickiness.

A few words of warning: The main disadvantage of making mashed potatoes this way is that any mistake spells disaster. For best results, purchase either a digital thermometer or a Fahrenheit thermometer.

BASIC RECIPE

This basic recipe lists the steps to ensure you get great mashed potatoes.

1.5 kg potatoes (Belle de Fontenay or Charlotte varieties are best)

Peel the potatoes and cut into slices approximately 2.5 cm thick. It is important that the slices are of the same thickness, because the difference “by eye” can often be 15%, meaning the 30 minutes of cooking required for 2.5 cm slices will not be enough for larger ones. thick slices (or too much for thinner ones). After cutting the potatoes, place them in a colander and leave them under cold running water for a few minutes to wash off excess starch. Dry.

Let's move on to soaking: without putting the potatoes in the pan, pour water into it so that it covers the potatoes by 2-3 cm. I repeat once again - do not put the potatoes in the pan at this stage.

Heat the water over low heat to 175 Fahrenheit and hold at this temperature for 10 minutes. Now add the potatoes. The water temperature will drop to 165 Fahrenheit. Boil the potatoes, keeping the temperature at this level, for 30 minutes. Then drain the water and immediately place the potatoes in a bowl under cold running water. Cool thoroughly.

The potatoes are now ready for further cooking. In a separate saucepan, bring the water to the boiling point, but do not boil. Salt the water to the salinity level of sea water. Add potatoes and boil until soft. The potatoes are ready when the tip of a knife goes into them easily. Caution is also necessary here - if the potatoes are overcooked, the mashed potatoes will contain too much moisture.

Drain the potatoes in a colander and rinse under cold running water until the potatoes are completely cool. Dry the cold potatoes thoroughly by heating them in a saucepan over very low heat, shaking them slightly. The potatoes are finally ready to be mashed.

TRADITIONAL ENGLISH MASHED POTATOES
GOOD OLD-FASHIONED MASH

Add butter or olive oil, or both, along with milk or cream heated to boiling point, or again, both. Mash the potatoes using a regular masher/masher. If you are not serving the puree immediately, add only the butter and cool the puree completely, then transfer it to an airtight container and refrigerate. Before serving, heat the puree over low heat in a saucepan, whisking in a little hot milk and/or cream to taste.

PRESSURE (CRUSHED) POTATOES
CRUSHED POTATOES

Here the potatoes are not so much mashed as crushed, crushed into a heterogeneous mass, retaining small pieces. Mash the potatoes with a fork, adding butter and/or olive oil and other ingredients to taste. You can, for example, add chopped shallots, or finely chopped herbs (parsley, chives, basil, cilantro), finely chopped tomatoes, peeled and seeded, chopped olives, capers or finely chopped fried bacon.

Again, if you are not serving the puree immediately, cool it and refrigerate it until you add the flavorings. You can simply reheat the mashed potatoes in the oven before serving, and then add the flavorings.

MASHED POTATOES – RESTAURANT VERSION
POMMES PUREE

In our restaurant, this dish is prepared only with milk and butter - but a lot of butter is used, about 400 g of unsalted butter for every kilogram of potatoes. When I prepare this puree only for children, I take less butter (about 200 g per kilogram), but if the puree is served for a formal lunch or dinner, then the optimal amount of butter is 300 g per kilogram. The best device for mashing potatoes for this dish is a ricer (like a garlic press, only larger), but a vegetable grater will also work.

Cut the butter into approximately 2.5 cm cubes and place them in a large bowl. Press the hot potatoes through a masher onto the butter cubes. Do not strain the potatoes through a sieve, and under no circumstances puree them in a food processor - it will create a terrible sticky mass.

After mixing the potatoes with oil, in the restaurant we then pass them through a very fine drum sieve, which gives the puree more airiness, but at home this is quite difficult, although if possible, I recommend trying it at least once. This puree can be made ahead of time and keeps great in the refrigerator for 2-3 days.

Before serving, heat in a saucepan over very low heat, gradually whisking in a little milk heated to boiling point. At this stage, you can add a little melted cheese, chopped herbs or grain mustard to the puree to your taste. If you think about it, being a chef makes you lead a rather strange existence. In a professional kitchen, in the middle of lunch or dinner, it's easy to forget that for most people, all you do is cook. This peculiar perception of the world from the point of view of a kitchen stove makes you selfish and makes you value your free time. My wife has to not only take care of our two children and all the household chores, but also put up with my oddities and quirks, but in any case, I try to spend every Sunday with my family - and prepare a traditional Sunday lunch.

For many professional and amateur chefs, the ultimate achievement is a perfectly roasted chicken with a side of baked potatoes. The aroma of baked chicken is just as important as its taste - smell is generally more strongly associated with memory than any other sense, and the aroma of food is always associated with pleasant memories...

ROASTED CHICKEN
ROAST CHICKEN

Instead of a simple and boring recipe, here are some tips that will give you the best results. But before we begin, I would like to reiterate the importance of an oven thermometer - the readings from the built-in thermometer are often very, very wrong.

Start by choosing the chicken - the better its quality, the higher the quality of the finished dish.

Cut off all the “protruding” parts - wing tips, legs and neck - chop them and add them to the frying sheet. They will form the basis for the chicken sauce. If you want, remove the bow - it will be easier to cut the finished bird: lift some of the skin above the sternum from the side of the neck and make a small cut with a sharp knife along the bow; it can then be carefully released and removed.
Generously salt and pepper the carcass inside and out.
If desired, place a lemon, a clove of garlic and herbs such as thyme, rosemary and tarragon inside the carcass, pricked with a fork.
Tie the carcass compactly for even cooking.
Spices added to the frying pan (such as onions, garlic cloves and herbs) improve the quality of the sauce.
Do not bake the bird in high heat. Get an accurate thermometer - I usually bake the chicken at 65-70 C until the internal temperature of the carcass reaches 60 C - by this time the chicken will be almost ready. Remove the chicken from the oven, increase the heat to high, and return the chicken to the oven to brown the skin until crispy.

This method produces remarkable results because long-term baking at a low temperature helps preserve the juiciness of the bird. The problem, however, is that all the juices are retained in the meat, and there is nothing to make the sauce out of. At the restaurant we prepare the sauce separately, but at home it’s unlikely to bother with it, so you can bake the chicken at a higher temperature of 135 C until done, and then brown. At this heat you will get enough juice for the sauce.

Naturally, there are many options for both time and temperature for baking chicken, but I like my version better, because when the internal temperature of the meat is above 60-65 C, the residual heat increases, which means the cooking of the carcass will continue even after it is removed from the oven.

At higher temperatures, the speed of frying chicken breast is different from the speed of frying legs. The problem can be solved by frying the chicken a third of the time on one side, a third on the other side, and a third with the breast side up. Frying at low temperatures avoids endless turning. For reference, a chicken weighing 1.5 kg will fry in about 2.5 hours at a temperature of 135 C. It is important to note that in ovens of older models the heat is higher at the back wall of the oven and lower at the door, so place the carcass in such an oven with the neck cut towards the back wall, where the breast meat is thicker.

Frying at low temperatures means that the meat retains virtually no residual heat and therefore does not require standing. However, meats baked at 135 C or higher will require standing, during which time residual heat will complete the cooking process. Place a small inverted bowl on a large plate, lean the chicken against the bowl with the neck cut down, so that the meat juices flow down to the thicker part of the breast. Cover with foil.
On high heat (on the stove), heat a frying sheet with meat juices, fry the vegetables, add 300 ml of cold water, bring to a boil and scrape all the particles stuck to it from the bottom. Reduce heat to very low and simmer for about 30 minutes, slowly reducing the sauce. Rub it through a sieve, evaporate again in a separate saucepan to the desired thickness, whisk in a piece of cold butter.

BAKED POTATO
ROAST POTATOES

My kids love baked potatoes and love to help peel them - for Sunday lunch, the more the merrier. It’s not only a matter of using a variety suitable for baking, you also need to remember that the water for boiling potatoes should not be salted under any circumstances, otherwise the potatoes will not become crispy. Before baking, potatoes must be thoroughly boiled in low boiling water. You can, of course, for extra crunch, place the potatoes under the grill at the end of baking, but to be honest, this is not the case. Not to mention (oh, horror) that some people additionally fry their baked potatoes in the deep fryer before serving...

If the potatoes become slightly mushy when you dredge them in flour, don't worry—they'll be the crispiest bits. The amount of ingredients indicated in the recipe is based on 4 servings, although for my family I double it

1 kg potatoes (use the variety best suited for making crispy potatoes)
150 ml olive oil
4 cloves garlic
1 large bunch fresh rosemary
1 bunch fresh thyme
1 tbsp. regular flour
salt

Preheat oven to 175 C. Wash and peel potatoes, cut in half or into thirds, depending on size, and rinse under cold running water for 5-10 minutes. Bring unsalted water to a boil in a large saucepan, add potatoes, and boil until soft. Pour olive oil into a roasting pan (large enough to fit all the potatoes in one layer). The olive oil should coat the sheet with a layer about 1 cm thick. Place the sheet in the preheated oven.

Place the potatoes on a sieve, sprinkle them with sifted flour, carefully roll them in flour so that they do not fall apart too much. Place the potatoes on the heated baking sheet along with the garlic cloves, turning each potato so that it is completely coated with oil. Return the roasting sheet to the oven. For best results, turn the potatoes every 20 minutes. Half an hour after the start of frying, add herbs. The potatoes should bake for about 1.5 hours, and by the end of frying they will be golden brown. Dry the potatoes on paper towels, season with salt and serve. I assure you, your patience will be more than rewarded!

CABBAGE WITH BUTTER
BUTTERED CABBAGE

This is a very simple recipe: no salty boiling water, no blanching, no reheating, no creepy overcooked mess. The indicated amount of cabbage is barely enough for 4 servings of a side dish, because the cabbage boils down too much.

1 large head of white cabbage or 2 heads of savoy cabbage
150 g unsalted butter
salt and pepper

Remove the top leaves from the head of cabbage - the first three layers for savoy cabbage, and the first two layers for white cabbage. While this may seem like a food translation, the top leaves of cabbage are actually tough and not very tasty. Cut off the stem of the head of cabbage and carefully disassemble the head of cabbage into leaves. Cut out the central thick vein from each leaf, cut each leaf into small pieces.

In a steel saucepan with a lid, melt the butter over moderate heat. When the oil begins to sizzle but not color, add the cabbage. Add salt, pepper, mix well with oil and cover with a lid. The cabbage will be ready in 5-10 minutes, depending on how large it was chopped. So keep an eye out.

The cabbage will become very sweet and retain its bright green color (if Savoy). It is very important to shake the pan from time to time so that the cabbage does not burn to the bottom. Cook the cabbage in oil and its own juice, then taste it and add salt if necessary. First of all, cooking is about pleasure. Many who read these articles may have great doubts - I insist on precise temperature conditions and give a lot of technical details, but nevertheless, I get the same satisfaction from cooking as any of us, professional or amateur: quiet the hissing of oil in a frying pan, the aroma of fried meat, the color contrasts of carrots and onions, the smells of freshly ground spices and herbs...

And at the same time, all sorts of physical and chemical reactions occur. If you understand at least a little about all this “mechanics”, then the kitchen becomes a very attractive place. And this does not mean that conventional cooking methods should be forgotten or completely rejected. All I offer are slightly different ways and methods. The more you learn, the easier it becomes to cook—with or without recipes.

Culinary art has long been considered an almost mystical activity, and the often contradictory advice of various “experts” does not help in understanding its secrets. Everyone has come across recipes for the same dish that require exactly the opposite approach to food processing or with a huge difference in the time and temperature of its preparation.
I once came across a salmon recipe that said the fish was ready when white specks appeared on its surface. You can't imagine anything worse, because by this point the fish will be completely overcooked - the proteins begin to coagulate at a temperature of 40 C. As the temperature increases, the coagulated protein rises to the surface of the fish, forming white specks. It is not at all necessary to thoroughly understand the process of protein folding in order to understand that as the temperature increases, the fish simply loses its juiciness and dries out.

How to avoid this? Yes, it’s very simple - buy a thermometer. I have already spoken about this more than once, but nevertheless this is my main advice to all novice cooks. A digital thermometer costs about £15, while a regular oven thermometer costs less than £10. A good thermometer is absolutely essential in the kitchen and will provide excellent results.

A thermometer is not just another technological “delight.” The thermometer is designed to accurately measure temperature. Thermometers will give you confidence when cooking and help you become more proficient in the kitchen. You will forever get rid of the need for complicated calculations of how long it will take to cook 1 kilogram of meat, fish or poultry, knowing that when the product has reached a certain temperature, the dish is ready. The “x minutes per kilogram” technology is by definition imprecise - two pieces of meat may weigh the same, but one piece will be thicker, the other thinner, and they will take different amounts of time to cook.

And now a few words about low-temperature heat treatment. I understand perfectly well that this approach may seem very strange and unreliable to many, but, surprisingly, it is low temperatures that give the best results, the softest and juiciest meat. Although this method takes longer, you don't have to do anything for it - relax, prepare the sauce, boil the vegetables and enjoy the aroma of the roasted meat or poultry.

All recipes are based on 6 servings

BAKED BEEF RIBS
Roast rib beef

Choose a piece commensurate with your guests' appetites. The weight of the piece doesn't matter much. Many grocery stores sell ribs without the back bone, which means the meat will not be protected from direct heat on the baking sheet. In this case, crumple the aluminum foil into a loose ball and place the meat on it to protect it from excessive heat.

Beef ribs, cut into 6 ribs (2 ribs per serving), with bones and film
peanut butter
100 g unsalted butter
salt and pepper

Preheat the oven to 75 C (this is the optimal temperature for long-roasting beef). Season the meat well with salt and pepper and brush it with peanut butter. Place the meat, spine side down, on a roasting sheet. Bake in the oven until the internal temperature of the piece reaches 56 C. (If you are using a regular thermometer rather than a digital one, the temperature should be approximately between 55 C and 60 C.) This will take quite a long time - check the meat through the first time. 4 hours, be patient and resist the temptation to turn up the oven heat. Once the internal temperature of the meat reaches 56 C, remove the meat from the oven. (If you insist on the taste of fried meat, then melt a piece of butter in a large frying pan and very quickly brown the piece on all sides).

Remove the layer of meat from the ribs with a sharp knife and cut into portions across the grain.

There are many recipes for gravy for these ribs. For example, you can add meat trimmings (and, if desired, a few pieces of carrots, celery root and a whole shallot) to a baking sheet and bake them in the resulting fat at a higher temperature, then pour a small amount of boiling water over the baking sheet and make a sauce from the resulting liquids. Below is my favorite gravy recipe.

SAUCE (GRAVY) FOR MEAT
A sauce for the roast

This is an approximate recipe for sauce for beef ribs - you don’t need to put in much effort (except maybe time), and the result is finger-licking.

For chicken broth

750g chicken wing tips, chopped
1 onion, peeled and cut into 4 pieces
1 carrot, peeled and cut crosswise into 8 pieces
1 stalk of celery, cut into 4 pieces
1 leek, white part only, cut crosswise into 4 pieces
3 cloves crushed garlic
1 bunch fresh thyme
1 fresh bay leaf (to taste)

Place the wings in a saucepan, add cold water, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, simmer for five minutes, drain in a colander, drain and rinse wings with running cold water. Rinse the pan, place the wings in it and fill it with cold water again. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low, add remaining ingredients and simmer over very low heat (do not let it boil) for about 90 minutes. Strain through a fine sieve and set aside.

Beef broth (base)

50 g unsalted butter
peanut butter
750 g beef shank, cut into pieces
1 onion, peeled and thinly sliced
1 star anise
1 carrot, peeled and thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, crushed
A few sprigs of fresh thyme and rosemary

In a large, heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat 25g butter and 1 dessertspoon peanut butter. Add the meat and stir until lightly browned. Drain in a colander. Add the remaining butter and a little more peanut oil to the pan, heat and lightly brown the vegetables in it. Add meat and herbs to the vegetables and simmer for 5 minutes.

Pour in a ladleful of chicken broth, stirring with a wooden spoon to remove any burnt bits from the bottom. When the liquid has reduced to a thick consistency, add another ladleful of chicken broth and reduce again. Repeat this process one or two more times until the liquid turns into a thick syrup. Add the remaining chicken broth and simmer over very low heat for about an hour. Strain through a fine sieve into a small saucepan and, if necessary, reduce further. Whisk a small piece of cold butter into the gravy to give it a glossy finish. I no longer admired the work of the French chemist Herve This. I especially like the incomparably delicious “Chantilly chocolate”. In principle, to prepare it you don’t need anything other than high-quality dark chocolate, melted in an almost equal (slightly less by weight) amount of water, and whipped in something like a water bath (only ice instead of boiling water). The finished product - about 5 minutes after the start of whipping - resembles chocolate whipped cream.

One day I came to Paris to visit Herve and we decided to try making mayonnaise from egg whites rather than yolks. The advantage of the white is that it does not “envelop the palate” like the yolk (for comparison, imagine a piece of bread dipped in the yolk of a soft-boiled egg).

Then I decided to check what would happen during the heat treatment of this protein mayonnaise - would the emulsion hold, would the vegetable oil flake off? The experience was a success. And then I decided that if I combine both of these principles, the chocolate fudge dessert that we serve in the restaurant will turn out even tastier.

The traditional fudge recipe includes egg yolks, sugar, butter, chocolate and flour. Several years ago, I (an eternal experimenter) decided that it was possible to do without flour, believing that six minutes of cooking was not enough to eliminate the “mealy” nature of the dessert. I also wanted to reduce the amount of sugar in the recipe because the chocolate flavor is enhanced in a less sweet dessert.

So after my meeting with Hervé, I decided to replace all the yolk in the fudge with egg white, beating it as little as possible. The result exceeded all expectations because the taste of chocolate took center stage.

The main problem was that replacing the yolk with white took away the “enveloping” taste of the dessert and made it too sweet. We had to reduce the amount of sugar until there was no sugar left in the recipe.

For this recipe, you will need metal ring molds without a base because the fondant is so delicate that it is impossible to turn it over, but you can only carefully remove the ring. If you don't have such molds, it's very easy to make them yourself from small tin cans, cutting off the bottom on both sides.

My advice for any chocolate recipe is to only buy the highest quality dark chocolate. It is important to remember that chocolate should never be overheated above 40 C, otherwise it will become hard and grainy. Recipe makes 6 servings (metal pan, approximately 3 inches in diameter). You will also need parchment or wax paper.

It is not at all necessary to prepare this dessert in removable forms - you can also use small soufflé molds, but in this case the dessert is not removed, but served in the forms. If you do not heat-treat the mixture, you can serve it as a mousse by first cooling it for 3-4 hours in the refrigerator. In this case, add 30 ml of cold water to the mixture.

Hi all! Ciao a tutti!

I want to tell you about another experiment, the result of which shocked me! This time I made chicken broth according to Heston Blumenthal's method (Heston Blumenthal). Many here are familiar with the work of this gifted chef, one of the few holders of three Michelin stars in the UK and apologists for the scientific approach to cooking. I love his smart and interesting recipes too, like his super flavorful, rich chicken broth. I would like to note right away that the “genius” of this broth is not my merit, I just used all of Heston’s secrets.

So we will need: chicken wings (I had ½ kg), skimmed milk powder (2-3 tbsp), 1 carrot, 2 onions and water. Heston also recommends adding fresh mushrooms, but I didn't.

Everything ingenious is simple - we take chicken wings, they are cheap and have a lot of gelatin. Roll them thoroughly in dry milk - this is necessary to reveal the taste of the chicken as a result of the Maillard reaction (when baked, the proteins react with sugar, forming an aromatic crispy crust). By adding milk powder, we increase the amount of protein and sugar, and in skim milk powder they are 36 and 52%, respectively.

Now put the wings in the oven at 200C until they turn golden. It took me about 30 minutes to get these tanned guys:

Fill with cold (!) water. Next, Heston recommends splashing some water into the container where the chicken was baked, using a spatula to scoop up all the burnt bits, let it boil and add it all to the pan. If you have a pressure cooker, the cooking time is 2 hours. I cooked it for just under 5 hours on low heat - I just folded everything in, poured it in, covered it with a heavy lid and forgot it for five hours! Then I cooled it, carefully strained it, and here it is - a brilliant broth with the concentrated taste of real fried chicken! And note that I didn’t use a drop of oil:

I immediately poured part of the broth into small containers, into ice trays and froze, but I put this ½ liter jar in the refrigerator. This amount was enough for two 3-liter pans of aromatic soup!!! By the way, after standing in the refrigerator, the broth gelled perfectly:

I don’t think there’s any need to tell you what else such a strong broth could be useful for. How many sauces, cereals, vegetables and a wide variety of dishes can be prepared using it.

This is the most delicious broth I've ever had, and I'm a big fan of broths! I highly recommend making it for you too!

P.S. Chicken breast bones with minimal meat residue on them also perform very well using this technique. I somehow had about 15 of them in my freezer, and I made this Heston broth from them - everything turned out and no worse, even without the skin. It even seemed to me that the gelability of the breast bones was even higher, a paradox.

Bon Appetit everyone! Buon appetito a tutti!

________________________________________ _______________

In winter I cook this broth every weekend; it makes very tasty soups. The broth recipe is from Blumenthal's latest book, the recipe alone made it worth buying the book, and the broth is also made for the community gotovim_vmeste2 . The peculiarity of this broth is that it is prepared in a pressure cooker; after boiling, the water along with the foam is drained, due to this the broth is transparent, and all the vegetables are cut as thin as possible, so the broth has a rich taste and aroma.

Basic recipe

Light chicken broth - makes 2 liters

1.75 kg chicken wings

150g peeled and finely chopped onion (approximately 2 onions, depending on size)

150g carrots, peeled and finely chopped (approximately 2 carrots, depending on size)

100 g finely chopped champignons

60g celery stalk, finely chopped (about 2 stalks, depending on size)

50 g finely chopped leek, only the white and light green part of the stem (about 1 stem)

2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed with a knife blade

10 g parsley - stems and leaves

6 stalks thyme

1 bay leaf

5 g black pepper (peas)

Place the chicken wings in a saucepan, add water until the water completely covers them and bring to a boil, collecting all the foam that has formed in the process.

As soon as the water boils, remove from heat, drain the hot water and rinse the wings in cold water.

Place the chicken wings in a pressure cooker, add 2 liters of cold water and bring to a boil, also skimming off any foam that has formed.

Close the pressure cooker with an airtight lid and over high heat until high pressure (when the special valve rises, no steam should escape from the pressure cooker at all). Reduce temperature to lowest possible and cook for 1 hour.

Remove from heat and leave to cool to room temperature; once cooled, remove the lid. Add vegetables, mushrooms and garlic, cover with an airtight lid, bring to high pressure over high heat, reduce to low and cook for 30 minutes.

All vegetables and mushrooms should be cut into thin slices or grated on a mandoline grater. Crush the garlic with the wide side of the knife blade.

Remove from heat and leave to cool to room temperature, remove lid and add herbs and black pepper and let sit for 30 minutes.

Strain the liquid through a sieve with two layers of damp gauze inside the sieve. Place in the refrigerator overnight and skim off the fat in the morning. The broth is ready for further use or subsequent freezing.

The broth turns out amazing, and after a night in the refrigerator it hardens into such a weak jelly. I freeze it in small portions of 100, 200 and 300 ml, and then use it as a base for soups and sauces.

I found this recipe on the Internet. I made it and liked it. This is the only way I cook broth now. Fair warning - the description is not mine.

Hi all!
I want to tell you about another experiment, the result of which shocked me! This time I made chicken broth using Heston Blumenthal's method. Many here are familiar with the work of this gifted chef, one of the few holders of three Michelin stars in the UK and apologists for the scientific approach to cooking. I love his smart and interesting recipes too, like his super flavorful, rich chicken broth. I would like to note right away that the “genius” of this broth is not my merit, I just used all of Heston’s secrets.
So, we will need: chicken wings (I had ½ kg), skimmed milk powder (2-3 tbsp), 1 carrot, 2 onions and water. Heston also recommends adding fresh mushrooms, but I didn't.
Everything ingenious is simple - we take chicken wings, they are cheap and have a lot of gelatin. Roll them thoroughly in dry milk - this is necessary to reveal the taste of the chicken as a result of the Maillard reaction (when baked, the proteins react with sugar, forming an aromatic crispy crust). By adding milk powder, we increase the amount of protein and sugar, and in skim milk powder they are 36 and 52%, respectively.

Now put the wings in the oven at 200C until they turn golden. It took me about 30 minutes to get these tanned guys:

I don’t think there’s any need to tell you what else such a strong broth could be useful for. How many sauces, cereals, vegetables and a wide variety of dishes can be prepared using it.
This is the most delicious broth I've ever had, and I'm a big fan of broths! I highly recommend making it for you too!
P.S. Chicken breast bones with minimal meat residue on them also perform very well using this technique. I somehow had about 15 of them in my freezer, and I made this Heston broth from them - everything turned out and no worse, even without the skin. It even seemed to me that the gelability of the breast bones was even higher, a paradox.

I would also like to add that this amount of products is used for 3 - 4 liters of water. I poured the broth into ice cube trays and froze. It turned out like this:

Cook this broth. You won’t regret the effort!

Http://receptculinar.ru/blog/43057768739/Genialnyiy-kurinyiy-bulon?utm_campaign=transit&utm_source=main&utm_medium=page_12&domain=mirtesen.ru&paid=1&pad=1&tmd=1

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