Merchant dishes. Russian merchant dishes (recipes)

Moscow of the 19th century is no match for St. Petersburg with its brilliant French restaurants on Nevsky. The second capital, having assimilated the gastronomic tastes of the century, preserved the centuries-old tradition of a leisurely, hearty meal. Moscow has absorbed newfangled culinary trends, successfully dissolving them into the old hospitality and cordiality.

Only recently did one of the lovers of Russian cuisine complain to journalists. Well, they say, you can’t taste cabbage soup with buckwheat in Moscow, we’ve survived! It’s funny that just a week before this, it was “cabbage soup with buckwheat” (pictured above) that appeared in the Russian cuisine menu of the restaurant “created with our help”Nicholas"on Polyanka. I will continue the story about the Moscow restaurants that Olga Syutkina and I advise as part of recreating national historical cuisine. Here is another project of ours, which the portal writes aboutmorning. ru :

After 1917, much disappeared into oblivion. In Soviet times, cultural differences were gradually erased, and cuisine was leveled and demonstratively simplified. Today, however, interest in the gastronomic traditions of pre-revolutionary Russia is rapidly growing. On the one hand, ancient recipes are being restored, although they are inevitably rethought in the light of modern technologies and tastes. On the other hand, the practice of using local, regional and farm products is being revived. The gastronomic set, which was recently launched at the Nicolas restaurant on Bolshaya Polyanka, is a clear embodiment of both trends.

Baked pike perch with buckwheat and white sauce

First of all, Nicolas is a farm restaurant. It has been this way since its opening and remains so to this day. Moreover, it works with the same trusted suppliers. The local cuisine can hardly be called gourmet, but it is good, reliable and honestly prepared.

And the appearance of a set based on Moscow merchant cuisine looks quite appropriate and organic here. The owners hired famous historians of Russian cuisine Olga and Pavel Syutkin as consultants, but chef Vladimir Gorskikh is entirely responsible for the final execution of each specific dish.

Pork jelly

The current version of the set includes a dozen positions. Please note that this version is not final. It is expected that it will be adjusted depending on the availability of seasonal products.

For a cold meal, guests are offered to try a pig roll with buckwheat and sauerkraut and mackerel with pickled beets and pickled apples. Among the salads, the vinaigrette with lightly salted sprat attracts attention. However, Olivier with smoked trout also looks quite good - tender, delicate and piquantly salty in taste.

Pig roll with buckwheat and sauerkraut

At the beginning of the century, the Russian people’s concept of home cooking was much broader than it is now: it included baking bread, brewing beer and kvass, preparing cheeses, vinegar, jam, pastilles, producing sausages, and smoking meat products and fish.

The kitchen in the house was well equipped: a Russian stove, cauldrons, frying pans, copper and pottery pots, tagans, grates for frying over the fire, chumichki, iron graters, mortars, sieves and sieves, small strainers for straining drinks. The tableware was also quite varied.

When serving, it was imperative to ensure that “the vessel it was served in was clean, and the bottom was wiped clean,” “and the food and drink were clean, without mold or burnt marks.” When food was placed on the table, it was not allowed to cough, blow your nose, or spit. Cooks and everyone working in the kitchen were required to wear clean clothes. It was recommended to store the dishes upside down or covered. It was considered the height of tactlessness to say at the table “everything is rotten, or sour, or fresh, salty, and bitter, musty, overcooked, or whatever blasphemy you lay down.”

Dishes from offal were prepared in large quantities. Russians, especially ordinary people, loved them very much and called them “amusement in the table.” Dishes made from offal (now completely forgotten) include lamb lung, into which eggs mixed with milk and flour were blown through the throat and bronchi. Then they fried and cut into pieces. But the omentums and rennets were stuffed with porridge, chopped liver.

“Usochka” was also widespread - a semi-liquid dish of lamb brisket with turnips and other vegetables (something reminiscent of a modern stew). The mention of herring, pike perch, sterlet, stellate sturgeon porridge (or porridge) is interesting. They prepared them like this: cut the fish into pieces, boil it, then add the grain and cook everything until done.

In Russian cuisine we also observe the presence of ancient dishes that appeared at the dawn of mankind, when, along with hunting and fishing, agriculture appeared.

We are gradually forgetting about the wonderful Russian traditions and culinary recipes of our ancestors. I think that for everyone, in all respects, everything that is native Russian is healthier and more useful, what we are accustomed to, what we have become accustomed to, what is learned from experience, passed on from fathers to children and is determined by the locality of our existence and way of life. After all, we are in many ways “programmed” for traditional cuisine. Refusal of it would bring harm to both us and the coming generation; Nature reacts very sensitively to such disruptions. Delicious, appetizing food strengthens a person better than any medicine.

When writing the work, I specially selected the best forgotten recipes of ancient Russian dishes.

But in no case should we forget our original Russian dishes. With the advent of the so-called “FAST FOOD” into our everyday life, we do not think about why such food is dangerous. And it causes many diseases (gastritis, ulcers, etc.). For a long time, Russian national cuisine has enjoyed well-deserved popularity throughout the world. Many Russian dishes are used in international restaurant cuisine, for example, such as cabbage soup, pancakes, ukha, jelly, pies. And native Russian products, such as red fish caviar, buckwheat, rye flour, have found worthy use in the cuisine of many countries.

In my work I want to show how simple and rational ancient Russian cuisine is, to describe in detail the forgotten dishes of our people.

History of Russian cooking

IX-XVI CENTURIES

At this initial stage of Russian cooking, the basis of the Russian table, which remains unchanged to this day, was formed: the famous black rye bread, traditional soups and cereals, pies and other numerous products made from yeast dough, pancakes, as well as drinks - honey, kvass and vodka. In addition, due to the adoption of Christianity during this period, a fast table and a fast table were established.

XVI-XVII CENTURIES

During this period, the khanates of Kazan and Astrakhan, Bashkiria and Siberia were annexed to Russia, which led to the emergence of a noticeable influence on Russian cuisine from the cuisine of the Turkic peoples. It was then that dishes made from unleavened dough such as noodles or dumplings entered Russian cuisine; it was enriched with such oriental spices as cinnamon, pepper, saffron and many others.

New fruits appeared on the Russian table: dried apricots, apricots, figs, raisins, persimmons, lemons. At the same time, tea was first brought to Russia, without which it is now simply impossible to imagine the Russian table. At this time, cane sugar also began to arrive in Russia, thanks to which jams, candies, candied fruits and other sweets that are completely familiar to us today appeared. It is necessary to note such a characteristic feature of this period of Russian cooking - at this time the difference between the table of the common people and the nobility sharply became apparent, and if the food of the nobility became richer and more refined, then the food of the lower strata of the population, on the contrary, became simpler.

XVIII CENTURY

During the era of the reforms of Peter I, Russian cuisine experienced a strong Western influence - first Dutch, German, Austrian and Swedish, then more French. It was then that it became fashionable among the nobility to bring cooks from these countries, a new oven design appeared in their kitchens - Dutch, which introduces new methods of culinary processing, as well as new kitchen utensils exported by foreign chefs from their countries - pots, colanders and frying pans. Among the new products are Dutch and French cheeses and, of course, potatoes, which have now become an indispensable product on the table of the Russians, and at first caused such rejection among the people that sometimes it even ended in the so-called “potato riots”.

XIX CENTURY

During the era of the Napoleonic invasion, Slavophile sentiments clearly manifested themselves in Russian society, interest in everything natively Russian appeared, in particular, in the wake of this interest, the Russian culinary heritage was rethought in a new way, which, paradoxically, was combined with the simultaneous strong influence of French cuisine. At this time, The first restaurants appeared in Russia; a huge number of French chefs worked in them, who in their own way embodied traditional Russian recipes taken from grandmothers' chests.

XX CENTURY

In our age of rapid development of means of communication and transport, Russian cuisine is being widely enriched due to the cuisines and culinary traditions of various countries around the world. Products that are new to us appear on our table, we learn approaches that are new to us.

to preparing traditional products, finally we use all sorts of wonders of household appliances in the kitchen, such as microwave ovens, food processors, toasters, deep fryers and much more.

2. Characteristics and features of technological processing techniques for raw materials and products for preparing dishes.

Dishes from offal were prepared in large quantities. Russians, especially ordinary people, loved them very much and called them “amusement in the table.” The hair of the heads of large and small livestock was singed or scalded, stripped and washed, then soaked in cold water and the skin was scraped off with a knife. The tongue was cut out, the pulp and skin were removed, after which the frontal part was removed, the brains were taken out and scalded.

Livestock feet were singed, scalded, trimmed, and hoofed. Then they soaked it in cold water for 2-3 hours, made an incision between the hooves and cut off the flesh and skin.

The brains were soaked in cold water for 1-2 hours to remove blood from the blood vessels and swell the films. Then the film was removed.

The bile ducts and blood vessels were cut out from the liver, the film was removed and washed. Sometimes they were scalded.

Tongues were cleaned of dirt with a knife and washed well with water.

The stomachs were turned inside out, soaked in cold water, then rolled up and tied with twine.

Blood clots were removed from the heart and throat. The lung was washed, cut into pieces along the bronchi and washed again.

Some types of canning are now almost forgotten - including small fish: it was dried, ground, and this mass was poured into sour cabbage soup. Sometimes small fish were dried and pounded in a mortar.

An interesting mention of herring, pike perch, sterlet, stellate sturgeon, etc. porridge (or porridge). They prepared them like this: boil the fish cut into pieces, then add the cereal and cook everything until tender. In Russian cuisine we also observe the presence of ancient dishes that appeared at the dawn of mankind, when agriculture appeared along with hunting and fishing.

The bird was plucked of feathers, rubbed with bran and singed, then washed with hot water, the belly was cut and the entrails and crop were removed, washed, the legs were cut off at the knee joint, then the carcass was cut into the necessary parts.

Meat, fish, caviar, cabbage were stored on ice. The glaciers were dug into the ground and isolated with lubok (wooden ceiling). The originality of Russian national dishes is due to the peculiarity of the Russian oven. The Russian stove has existed for about 4 thousand years, the reason for its versatility: heating homes, cooking, brewing beer, kvass, drying food. In ancient Russian cuisine there were many cooking techniques:

Baking

Deep frying

Spit roasting

Grilling

Frying in a pan

3. ASSORTMENT OF DISHES.

Radish salad with cottage cheese and nuts

Mushroom butter on bread

Russian cabbage soup made from krosheva

Stew of Peter the Great

Chicken fried in ash

Horseradish sauce with sour cream for boiled suckling pig

Cabbage jelly

Chestnut puree

Russian millet kulesh

Green rye or wheat porridge

Sorcerers with rice and egg

Ancient kurnik of chicken and rice with sour cream

Royal pancakes

Here is one of the menus that is given in Domostroi (in a written manuscript): on meat days - for lunch: cabbage soup, thin porridge (sometimes with poppy seed juice, sometimes with peas, sometimes dried fish or stewed turnips, and for dinner cabbage soup, cabbage, oatmeal, sometimes pickle, botvinya; on holidays, for dinner, additionally various pies, grounds (beer liquor, obviously seasoned with honey) or berries (porridge), herring porridge, pancakes, jelly, beer, home brew. Porridges were prepared from rye, wheat , buckwheat, oats, barley.

4. TECHNOLOGY OF COOKING DISHES.

The main feature in preparing Russian cuisine is the abundance and variety of products used. Russian people have long grown rye, wheat, barley, oats, millet, and were the first to discover the secret of making yeast dough. Hence the abundance of baked goods: pies, kulebyak, pies, rolls, kurniks, crumpets, shanezheki, pancakes, pancakes, etc. There is a wide range of cereal dishes: porridge, casseroles, cereals, including in combination with vegetables, milk, cottage cheese, eggs.

The fact that garden crops have been cultivated in Russia since ancient times is evidenced by the abundance of cold vegetable appetizers, first and second courses using vegetables.

The Russian stove had a particular influence on cooking technology. Food cooked in a Russian oven has a special taste and aroma. Also, the Russian oven determined special methods of frying: geese, ducks, piglets - carcasses. Meat in large pieces, whole ham.

Radish salad with cottage cheese and nuts in Russian.

To one medium radish, grated, add one hundred grams of cottage cheese, pre-mixed with one or two spoons of sour cream, one or two spoons of chopped walnuts, washed finely chopped green salad, add salt if necessary. Line a salad bowl or spoon with lettuce leaves.

100 grams of radish, 100 grams of cottage cheese, 50 grams of green salad, 50 grams of sour cream, 2 tablespoons of chopped walnuts.

Stew of Peter the Great.

Sort out the fresh champignons, peel the stems, cut them off, peel the caps, remove the skin, rinse everything in cold water, remove the sieve, chop finely, boil in milk and mince. Separately prepare chicken broth, season it with flour sautéed in fats and strain. Beat the egg yolks with milk, season before serving the broth, without bringing to a boil so that the yolks do not curdle. Add salt, peppercorns, bay leaf. Pass the boiled chicken through a meat grinder, combine with minced mushrooms, fry in oil, cool and add beaten egg whites and ground crackers. Make meatballs from the minced meat. When serving, throw them into the soup and sprinkle chopped dill on top.

30 grams of dried mushrooms or 200 grams of fresh ones, one egg, 200 grams of boiled chicken, 5 grams of ground crackers, 50 grams of milk, 8 grams of dill, 20 grams of melted butter, bay leaf, salt and pepper to taste.

Stuffing made from liver and lamb liver.

Process the liver and liver, boil it in water with roots, throw it on a sieve, finely chop it or pass it through a meat grinder, add eggs, grated bread, salt, pepper, chopped lamb fat. Line a saucepan or roasting pan with lamb fat mesh (which covers the tripe), place the prepared mass in the fat mesh, place in a not too hot oven, serve, place on a pudding-like dish, pour over the same juice.

500 grams of liver and liver, 30 grams of carrots, parsley, celery, 30 grams of onions, salt, pepper, bay leaf, 50 grams of bread, one egg, 50 grams of lamb fat, lamb mesh.

Ears and lips are elk or deer in Russian.

Scorch the ears and lips, pour boiling water over them for 5-6 hours, scrape them well with a knife, and rinse again. Chop into pieces and fry in oil. Also chop the boiled, peeled tongue, fry everything together with onions and prepared boiled white mushrooms, season with small white breadcrumbs, grated lemon zest, add bay leaf, salt, pepper, cilantro seeds, sautéed parsley, parsnips, celery, onion, add broth, Boil, bring to readiness and taste. Serve boiled pasta as a side dish.

100 grams of lips, 100 grams of tongue, 100 grams of ears, 20 grams of crackers, 20 roots each, 20 grams of butter, 10 grams of ground crackers, 200 grams of broth, spices to taste, 3 grams of herbs.

Cabbage bigus with pork head.

Scorch the pork head, soak in hot water for 2-3 hours, scrape with a knife until slightly yellowish, chop off the stigma, cut off the ears, remove the tongue, cut in half lengthwise, remove the brains. Separate the flesh from the bones, put the bones to cook for a broth with spices, and cut the flesh into cubes without skin and fry without oil, then put the meat in a pan, pour in the broth, add squeezed sauerkraut and simmer for 1-2 hours, season with sautéed roots, dried flour until brown, add salt, pepper, bay leaf to taste, sugar. Place the finished cabbage in a frying pan, garnish with capers, olives, olives, pickles, pieces of boiled head, sprinkle with oil, sprinkle with ground breadcrumbs and grated cheese. Bake in the oven, fry, serve hot in the same pan.

500 grams of head, 500 grams of cabbage, 15 grams of parsley, 15 grams of celery roots, 30 grams of carrots, 30 grams of onions, 20 grams of vegetable oil or lard, 20 grams of olives, 20 grams of cucumbers, 20 grams of capers.

Horseradish sauce with sour cream for boiled beef or suckling pig.

Grate the horseradish root, mix with a glass of sour cream, lightly salt and add sugar, beat with two yolks, put on the fire and quickly, stirring, heat until very hot, but without boiling.

200 g of horseradish root, 200 grams of sour cream, two egg yolks, salt, sugar to taste.

Cabbage jelly.

White cabbage is cleaned, washed in cold water, finely chopped and stewed until tender with the addition of breza (fat skimmed from meat or fish broth); the finished cabbage is seasoned with finely chopped sautéed onions, ground hot pepper, salt, finely chopped parsley or dill, add tea fried sausage, cut into small cubes, and mix everything well. Sift the flour, add butter, sour cream, sugar, salt, water and knead into a stiff dough. The finished dough is rolled out to 0.5 centimeters thick, greased with butter, and sprinkled with crushed sifted breadcrumbs. Apply a thin layer of stewed, seasoned cabbage, roll the dough with cabbage into a tube shape (roll), place it on a baking sheet or sheet with greased oil, brush the top with egg lison and put it in the oven to bake. When serving, cut into pieces (one piece per serving) and pour the dissolved butter over the strudel.

400 grams of cabbage, 20 grams of onions, 100 grams of breze, 5 grams of herbs, 100 grams of sausage, salt and pepper to taste.

For the dough: 100 grams of flour, 1 tablespoon of milk, 1 tablespoon of sour cream, 4 eggs, salt, sugar, soda on the tip of a knife.

Chestnut puree.

Boil and peel the chestnuts, pour in two glasses of milk with a spoonful of butter, add a teaspoon of sugar and a little salt, simmer under the lid until boiled. While hot, rub through a sieve along with the broth, dilute the heavy cream, add butter, boil, serve with fried beef and turkey.

200 grams of chestnuts, 100 grams of butter, ½ cup of heavy cream, 2 cups of milk, sugar to taste.

Sorcerers with rice and egg.

Boil rice in water, place in a sieve, add one tablespoon of butter, add two chopped eggs, dill, and parsley. Then prepare the dough for sorcerers, knead and let it lie for 30 minutes in a pan under a lid or under a towel so that it does not dry out. Then roll out the dough thinly, as for noodles, cut out the flatbreads, place a little minced meat on each of them and pinch them like dumplings. Boil the sorcerers in boiling water, once they float to the surface, catch the sorcerers with a slotted spoon and transfer to a dish. Oil

Color the butter (50 grams) over low heat with ground breadcrumbs, pour over the sorcerers, and serve.

For minced meat: 100 grams of rice, 1 tablespoon of butter, 2 eggs, dill, parsley.

For the dough: 2 tablespoons flour, 2 eggs, 4 tablespoons water, salt.

Ear.

Turnips, rutabaga, onions and carrots are cut into slices, cabbage - into squares. Cook the lamb brisket cut into pieces until half cooked, skimming off the foam; then the meat is transferred to clay pots, vegetables, pickled or marinated cucumbers, salt, mushrooms are added and the dish is cooked until done. At the end of stewing, add chopped garlic and sprinkle with herbs before serving.

The ear can be seasoned with herbs and sautéed flour.

Lamb 150 grams, onions 20 grams, carrots 30 grams, turnips 30 grams, rutabaga 15 grams, white cabbage 30 grams, cucumbers 20 grams, dried mushrooms 20 grams, herbs, salt to taste.

An ancient kurnik made from chicken and rice with sour cream.

Chicken without feathers, grate with bran and singe, remove the entrails, the head along with the neck, crop, legs 1 cm below the knee joint, rinse, cook until tender, cool slightly, separate the pulp, cut into julienne. Pour out ½ cup of chicken broth, add ¼ cup of cream, fried champignons, or a little nutmeg. Boil to 1/2 cup, add finely chopped parsley, a few drops of lemon juice, cool everything, rinse 1 cup of rice. Boil rice in three glasses of chicken broth with a small bunch of herbs, add salt, hard-boil five chicken eggs and chop finely. Fry fresh porcini or pickled mushrooms in oil. When everything is ready, take the prepared dough, cut off a quarter of the dough for the lid, and roll out three quarters of the dough into a circle 1 cm thick, put it on a sheet, put half the rice in the middle, smooth the edges of the dough, sprinkle half the eggs on the rice, then half the chicken and mushrooms, again rice, eggs and chicken with mushrooms. Use a spoon to press the minced meat more tightly, carefully pull the edges of the dough towards the top so that the dough does not tear. Place a lid on the top from the remaining piece of rolled out dough, pinch the edges with a Christmas tree, leave a hole in the middle and decorate the top with pieces of dough. Brush with egg and place in a hot oven. When the minced meat boils and the chicken can be easily moved from its place, the pie is ready.

1 medium chicken, 1 glass of rice, 200 grams of mushrooms, 5 eggs.

For the sauce: 150 grams of broth, ¼ cup of cream, strong mushroom broth, lemon juice, parsley, salt and pepper to taste.

Royal pancakes.

Melt 200 grams of butter, cool slightly to 30 degrees, put in a saucepan, immediately add 100 grams of sugar, 6 egg yolks, stirring on ice in one direction until it starts to foam. Meanwhile, prepare béchamel sauce, a thick, milky sauce with the consistency of pancake batter. Stir the bechamel on ice until it cools, then pour the prepared butter with yolks and sugar into it, and again turn in that direction, add one tablespoon of water (infused with lemon or orange peels, first remove the inner part, as it is bitter) , add ½ cup of thick, whipped cream, and stir again once. Fry over low heat, in medium-sized frying pans, do not remove the pancakes with a knife, tip them from the frying pan onto a kitchen board, sprinkling each row with sugar and sprinkling a little lemon juice. Place the pancakes stacked on top of each other in this way along the edges and decorate with jam or fruit and berry jelly on top.

100 grams of butter, 6 yolks, 100 grams of sugar, 100 grams of flour, 200 grams of cream, ½ spoon of infusion of lemon or orange water, ½ cup of heavy cream, lemon juice, any fruit and berry jam or jelly.

How magnificent, simple and rational Russian cuisine is. But nowadays, more and more often, dishes of foreign cuisine appear on our table, this is not so bad, but by accepting these culinary innovations, we forget about our native Russian cuisine, what we are used to, what we have become accustomed to, what we have learned from experience, passed on from fathers to children and is determined by the area of ​​our existence, climate and way of life. Abandoning our national cuisine will harm us and the coming generation; nature reacts sensitively to such disruptions, but tasty, appetizingly prepared food strengthens a person better than any medicine.

Alexander Pushkin was a famous connoisseur of gourmet snacks and drinks. His hero Eugene Onegin also went down in literary history as a gourmet. In the novel in verse, the poet mentioned more than 30 different dishes, many of which not even every aristocrat could afford. Let's remember what socialites of the early 19th century, including the dandy Eugene Onegin, liked to eat.

IN PETERSBURG

After the morning toilet and lazy reading of invitations to balls and evenings, Onegin went for a walk. Around four o'clock in the afternoon it was time for lunch. This time was considered “European” for lunch - in winter at four o’clock it was already dark. Unmarried young people living in the city rarely hired a cook - a serf or a foreigner. Therefore, they went to restaurants for lunch.

In gastronomic terms, the nobles were guided by European and especially French cuisine - a recognized trendsetter in culinary fashion. It is not surprising that Evgeny Onegin went to the French restaurant Talon for lunch.

The establishment really existed in St. Petersburg. Dandies of that era gathered in the restaurant of the Frenchman Pierre Talon at number 15 on Nevsky Prospekt. His cooks fed socialites until 1825.

Alexander Pushkin himself often visited this fashionable place. The restaurant was not only one of the most popular, but also one of the most expensive in St. Petersburg at the beginning of the 19th century.

Entered: and there was a cork in the ceiling,

The comet's fault flowed with current...

Here, of course, Pushkin wrote about champagne - the usual drink of the Russian aristocracy of that era. The poet was referring to the champagne of 1811. After a stuffy and dry summer that year, a soft and warm autumn came to Central Europe. The grape harvest was unusually good, and the wine made from it was simply excellent. Then, in August, a bright and large comet appeared in the sky, which was also observed by residents of St. Petersburg.

This year's champagne came with a cork featuring a comet. Connoisseurs highly valued rare wine for its taste. Because of the war between Russia and France in 1813, only 100 bottles of champagne from the 1811 harvest were officially imported into Russia - worth 600 rubles.

“Before him is a bloody roast-beef...”

In 1819–1820, the fashion for the English dish roast beef came to Russia. It was prepared from good beef tenderloin. To ensure that the fillet remained tender inside, it was kept in milk for several hours before cooking. After that, fry for three minutes on each side in a frying pan, pour in dry white wine and cook for another 15 minutes.

The center of the piece of meat should have remained half-raw - bright pink. The top of the dish was covered with a delicious golden brown crust. Roast beef was usually eaten cold. The juice from the meat was drained and served in a gravy boat. Fried potatoes or baked vegetables were offered as a side dish for roast beef.

And truffles, the luxury of youth,

French cuisine has the best color…

Truffles are another product that only wealthy nobles could afford. The famous French chef Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin called expensive aromatic mushrooms “the diamonds of the kitchen.”

Vladimir Nabokov, who wrote two volumes of commentaries on Eugene Onegin, described them as follows: “These delicious mushrooms were valued so highly that we, in the tasteless color of artificial aromas, can hardly imagine.” During the time of Eugene Onegin, truffles were brought to Russia from France.

The mushrooms grow at a depth of about 20 cm underground in oak and beech groves in France, Italy, Germany and some other European countries. Now, like 200 years ago, special trained pigs and dogs search for them by smell.

A kilogram of truffle mushrooms costs about 1000 euros. It is unlikely that they were cheaper before, if Pushkin called them “the luxury of youth.”

“And Strasbourg’s pie is imperishable...”

The dandies of Pushkin's era loved Strasbourg goose liver pate - a very fatty and expensive dish. Chefs often added those same delicious truffles to it. In Russia they did not cook the pie. How could Onegin’s contemporaries eat it in St. Petersburg?

The dish was brought here canned - straight from France. That’s why Pushkin called it “incorruptible.” Canning foods to extend their shelf life was invented during the Napoleonic Wars.

To prevent the pate from disappearing on the road, it was baked in dough, placed in a deep bowl, filled with lard (fat) and hermetically sealed. For reliability, ice briquettes were placed between the boxes of pies.

Foie pie was not prepared all year round, but only from late September to early December. The pate prepared at the end of the season was considered the most exquisite: the aroma of the truffle mushroom is fully revealed only after the first frost.

"Between Limburg cheese alive..."

The next item on the Talon restaurant menu is the famous cheese from the Belgian Duchy of Limburg. This soft cow's milk cheese has a tangy flavor and thin consistency. That’s why the poet called him “alive.” Because of the pungent smell, Limburg cheese was not eaten before going out or on a date.

It was usually served with dry red wines, highlighting its spiciness. In addition to this caustic but tasty Limburg cheese, Parmesan, Stilton, Chester, Neuchâtel, Dutch, Swiss and other cheeses were popular in Russia.

"And golden pineapple"

Exotic fruits were another way to spend money in style and brilliance. Foreign travelers were especially impressed that Russian aristocrats bought fruit in winter, when it was especially expensive.

During Pushkin's time, many Moscow estates had their own greenhouses in which fruit trees were grown. Memoirist Catherine Wilmont, who came from England to Russia to visit a relative, wrote:

“Greenhouses are an urgent need here. There are a great many of them in Moscow, and they reach very large sizes.<…>There were a hundred palm trees in tubs in each row, and other trees grew in the beds of the greenhouse.”

There were no such greenhouses in St. Petersburg, so pineapples, melons, peaches, oranges and watermelons were brought either from Moscow or from abroad. Pineapples, for example, were sold for 5 rubles apiece.

Thirst asks for more glasses

Pour hot fat over cutlets...

Eugene Onegin, who tasted rare roast beef, Belgian cheese, goose liver pie, fruit and washed it all down with champagne, was not full. Next, cutlets were served on the table.

The word “cutlet” came into Russian from French. Cotlett translates as “rib”. If today we prepare this dish from minced meat, then in Onegin times the cutlets were made from pork and veal ribs.

According to the recipe from the “Newest Complete Cookbook” of 1828, it was recommended to marinate them for about an hour with peppercorns, mushrooms, onions, parsley, garlic and warm butter, and then sprinkle them with bread crumbs and fry them over low heat.

Beef-steaks and Strasbourg pie

Pouring a bottle of champagne...

Here Alexander Pushkin remembered goose liver pie for the second time and mentioned beefsteak - the English national dish, which became a frequent guest on the tables of young Russian nobles. The cooks prepared it from beef fillet.

The meat was cut into large cubes and fried over high heat without salt or seasoning. Then they topped the dish with celery, parsley and dill. Served on a large plate with a pat of chilled butter on top.

During his trip, Evgeny Onegin tasted the establishment's signature dish - oysters - at the fashionable Odessa restaurant Oton.

What are oysters? come! O joy!

Gluttonous youth flies

Swallow from sea shells

Hermits fat and alive,

Lightly sprinkled with lemon.

Noise, controversy - light wine

Brought from the cellars

On the table by the helpful Otho;

The hours are flying, and the score is terrible

Meanwhile, it grows invisibly.

Fishermen delivered freshly caught oysters to wealthy residents of Odessa and St. Petersburg. It is not surprising that Pushkin wrote about a “terrible bill” that was invisibly growing. This pleasure was not cheap: for a hundred oysters they paid 50, and sometimes 100 rubles. As the poet described, they were eaten fresh, sprinkled with lemon juice. Light white wine was served with the oysters.

Moscow welcomes Onegin

With your arrogant bustle,

He seduces with his virgins,

Serves sterlet fish soup...

Unlike St. Petersburg with its English, Belgian and French delicacies, in Moscow Onegin preferred Russian cuisine with its rich assortment of soups. Sterlet fish soup is a traditional Russian dish. In addition to fresh gutted and cleaned fish, vegetables and vodka were added to the soup. The fish soup was cooked in clear chicken broth, and celery was added for flavor.

In the 19th century, in addition to fish soup, cabbage soup was popular among hot soups, and botvinya among cold soups. Many travelers who visited Russia admired the taste of Russian cabbage soup.

Beet salad

Ingredients : 150 g beets, 30 g horseradish, 20 g 3% table vinegar, 10 g vegetable oil, 5 g sugar, lemon zest, cinnamon, cloves, bay leaf and pepper.

Preparation

Peel baked or boiled beets, chop into strips or thin slices, place in layers in porcelain or earthenware dishes, sprinkle each layer with grated horseradish, pour in chilled marinade and leave for 2-3 hours. Before serving, place the salad in a heap in a salad bowl, sprinkle with sugar and pour over vegetable oil.
For the marinade, add cloves, cinnamon, lemon zest, bay leaf, peppercorns to vinegar, bring to a boil in a sealed container, cool and strain.

Artichoke, tomato and apple salad

Ingredients : 60 g artichokes, 20 g celery (root), 30 g apples, 30 g tomatoes, 20 g vegetable oil, 1/4 lemon (for juice), 10 g lettuce, pepper.

Preparation

Cut celery into strips, apples, fresh tomatoes (without skin and seeds) and boiled artichokes into small cubes. Mix vegetables, season with salt and pepper, add lemon juice and vegetable oil.
Serve in a salad bowl and garnish with lettuce leaves.

Potato salad with wine

Ingredients : 500 g potatoes, 1 onion, 1 pc. carrots, 1/2 cloves of garlic, 1 glass of wine, 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil, juice of 1/2 lemon, salt and pepper to taste.

Preparation

Potatoes are boiled with their skins on. Separately, boil the peeled carrots and cut into thin slices. Salt, pepper, finely chopped onion and a little crushed garlic are added to the warm potatoes and carrots.
A glass of wine is poured over this mixture and left for an hour, after which it is seasoned with a sauce made from lemon, 3% vinegar and vegetable oil.

Bean and apple salad

Ingredients : 150 g beans, 2 carrots, 1 large apple, parsley, 50 g dressing.

Preparation

Cut raw carrots and peeled sweet apples into thin strips, combine with beans, pour over salad dressing and sprinkle with parsley.
For this salad, you can use both canned beans and fresh green beans, boiled, peeled and cut into pieces.

Kosovo salad

Ingredients : 100 g of dried mushrooms, 1 kg of beets, 2 onions, 1/2 cup of vegetable oil, 3-4 cloves of garlic, vinegar, sugar, salt.

Preparation

Boil the beets in their skins, peel, cut into strips and sprinkle with vinegar. Finely chop one onion and simmer in vegetable oil. Cut the second onion and boiled mushrooms into strips. Crush the garlic.
Mix all products, season with salt and sugar to taste.

Jellied mushrooms

Ingredients : 50 g salted mushrooms, 100 g jelly (gelatin 4 g).
Garnish: 10 g carrots, 10 g pickles, 25 g potatoes, 3 g vegetable oil, 5 g vinegar.

Preparation

To prepare the jelly, add a little brine squeezed from the mushrooms to the water, boil it, add the gelatin soaked in water and dissolve it. Pour a thin layer of jelly into the molds. When it hardens, add finely chopped salted mushrooms, pour in the jelly and refrigerate.
Remove the aspic from the molds (lowering it in hot water for a few seconds), put it on a plate or vase, garnish with boiled finely chopped vegetables, seasoned with vinegar, oil, pickles, etc.

Summer vinaigrette

Take boiled and peeled various dried mushrooms, salted or pickled saffron milk caps.
Boil peeled and chopped asparagus, chopped green beans, cauliflower and new potatoes separately in salted water until soft, drain in a colander, pour in cold water, place in a cup, add slices of peeled fresh cucumbers, pour in 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil, a spoonful of vinegar, add chopped tarragon, fennel, dill, stir, place on a plate in a heap, cover with equal-sized slices of beets and potatoes, arranging them with bunches of green parsley.
Take a total of 600 g raw.

Winter vinaigrette

Take sliced ​​boiled potatoes, beets, turnips, peeled and sliced ​​pickles, boiled white beans, pickled cauliflower, some gherkins and chopped herbs, mix with 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil and 1/2 spoon of vinegar, etc.

Fish vinaigrette

For fish vinaigrette, you should always take large fish with few bones, such as sturgeon, salmon, pike perch, whitefish, trout, etc.
Having cleaned the surface and inside of the fish, you need to cut it lengthwise, remove the pulp first from the spinal bone, and then from the skin, remove, if possible, all the small bones. To make it easier to remove them, cut these fillets into small slices, diagonally towards the tail.
Then salt these slices, sprinkle with pepper, pour in lemon juice, place in a copper saucepan, greased with oil, add two tablespoons of cold water, cover with a lid so that the top layer of the fish does not dry out, place in a low-heat oven or on the edge of the stove so that the fish was boiled and fried at the same time until fully cooked.
When the fish is ready, take it out into the cold to cool. When the fish has cooled, place chopped potatoes and beets on a dish, then rows of fish and slices of beautifully chopped potatoes and beets. Cover each row with mustard sauce, and for a more intricate table - with Provencal sauce.
When everything is laid out, smoothed, the empty spaces can be filled with crayfish tails, covered with Provencal sauce on top, smoothed again, covered with finely chopped herbs, and put in the cold so that the sauce gets stronger.

Vinaigrette of various meats

Ingredients : 100 g of meat or fish, 1-2 beets, 1 spoon of gherkins, 1 pickled or fresh cucumber, 1 herring, 2 eggs, 5-6 pcs. mushrooms, 1 spoon of pickles, 5-6 potatoes, 2 spoons of capers, 3 spoons of sauerkraut, 1/2 cup of boiled beans, 20 olives, 1/2 cup of vinegar, 2 spoons of vegetable oil, 1 spoon of mustard.

Preparation

Take a variety of roasts: game, veal, beef or boiled fish: sturgeon, pike, salmon, add 1-2 boiled or baked beets, 1 spoon of gherkins, 1 salted or fresh large peeled cucumber, 1 herring, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 5-6 pickled saffron milk caps, 1 spoon of pickles, boiled finely chopped potatoes - 5-6 pieces, 2 spoons of capers, 3 spoons of sauerkraut, 1/2 cup white beans boiled in salted water, olives, 20 pieces, boneless.
Cut all this into small rectangular pieces, add green parsley, salt, pepper, 1/2 cup of vinegar, 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil, 1 spoon of prepared mustard - whoever likes, 2-3 pieces of sugar, stir, put on a dish, cover with beautifully chopped boiled potatoes and beets, stick in a circle of green parsley, half slices of lemon, hard-boiled eggs.

Leipzig vinaigrette

Ingredients : 200 g carrots, 200 g asparagus, 300 g green beans, 800 g green peas, 2 pcs. kohlrabi, 6 glasses of broth, 2.5 tablespoons of butter, 2 tablespoons of sugar, 2 tablespoons of salt, 2 tablespoons of flour, 3 yolks.

Preparation

Leipzig vinaigrette is prepared from various vegetables: carrots, asparagus, cauliflower, green beans, green peas, kohlrabi, etc. After peeling the carrots, they are quickly boiled in broth along with butter, sugar and salt. Cleaned asparagus is cut into pieces 2 cm long and boiled in water with salt in the same way as cauliflower divided into small inflorescences. Kohlrabi and green beans are cut into rectangular pieces obliquely and boiled until soft in water with salt in the same way as shelled green peas.
When all the vegetables are cooked, then grind 2 tablespoons of butter with 2 tablespoons of flour until white, dilute them with as much water from asparagus and cauliflower as is needed for the sauce, beat in 3 yolks, vigorously whipped into a foam with a spoon of sugar, and immediately remove the pan from the heat.
A large head of cauliflower is placed in the middle of a round dish and surrounded by a wreath of beans, which ends with a wreath of carrots. Various vegetables, mixed with peeled crayfish, are laid out on them in a radial manner, and the sauce is poured over everything. The different colors of the vegetables should be visible, so do not pour too much sauce.
The prepared food is doused with crayfish oil, and beautiful small cutlets and stuffed crayfish shells are placed mixed around the dish.

Potato and herring vinaigrette

Boil 500 g of potatoes, cut them into thin slices. 2 peeled and washed herrings, finely chop 2 onions; Grind 2-4 hard-boiled yolks until smooth with 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil, 2 teaspoons of prepared mustard, add pepper, 1 spoon of capers, a spoonful of vinegar, tarragon, stir with finely chopped potatoes.

Granular caviar

Ingredients : 75 g granular caviar, 20 g green onion.

Preparation

Place granular caviar in a caviar bowl or small salad bowl; Serve finely chopped green onions separately on a rosette.

Pressed caviar

Ingredients : 75 g pressed caviar, 1/6 lemon, greens.

Preparation

Weigh the portions of caviar, place them on a marble board and use a knife to shape them into a rectangle or rhombus. Carefully remove the caviar with the same knife, place it on a dish or plate and decorate with herbs and lemon.

White fish balyk or sturgeon

Ingredients : 75 g balyk, 1/6 lemon, greens.

Preparation

Balyk, peeled and cut diagonally so that the pieces are wide, place on a dish or plate, put lemon and parsley on the side.

Fish jelly

Ingredients : 1-1.5 kg of heads, fins, skin of fish of the sturgeon family or the same amount of small fish, 1 carrot, 1/2 onion, 2 parsley roots, 3-4 cloves of garlic, 1 teaspoon of gelatin.

Preparation

Pour food waste or small fish into 1.5 liters of cold water and cook at low boil for about 2 hours. During the cooking process, periodically skim off any foam and fat that forms. Half an hour before the end of cooking, add vegetables to the pan, and at the very end - spices.
When the fish is cooked, separate the flesh from the bones and finely chop with a knife. Strain the broth, add salt and fish pulp and boil for 10 minutes. If the broth is quite sticky, then gelatin should not be added. If this does not happen, then gelatin is pre-soaked in water, added to the broth and brought to a boil. Place crushed garlic into the prepared broth with pulp, stir the mixture, pour into prepared forms and leave to harden in a cool place.
You can place figuratively cut slices of carrots on the bottom of the mold.

Jellied fish

Ingredients : 100 g fish, 150 g jelly, 1/15 lemon, 40 g sauce, horseradish with vinegar, 100 g garnish.

Preparation

Boiled and cooled sturgeon, stellate sturgeon or beluga, cut into pieces and trimmed of cartilage and skin, boiled or poached pike perch, place on a baking sheet so that there are gaps between the pieces, and pour a thin layer of jelly. Decorate the drenched pieces of fish with slices of fresh cucumbers and boiled carrot figures; You can also put lemon slices, crayfish necks, and sprigs of herbs on the fish.
To attach decorations to the fish, they must first be dipped in melted jelly. When the jelly on the fish has hardened, pour a second layer of jelly on it with a layer of 1-1.5 cm, cool and cut out portions of the fish so that the edges of the pieces are corrugated.
Serve the jellied fish with or without a side dish.
Serve Russian table horseradish separately.

Sterlet aspic

Ingredients : 125 g sterlet, 150 g small fish, 3 g gelatin, 15 g pressed caviar, 15 g onions, 2 crayfish necks, 15 g granular caviar, 30 g sauce, horseradish with vinegar.

Preparation

Cut the processed sterlet into portions and cook in pre-prepared fish broth from small fish. Remove cartilage from finished pieces of sterlet and store in the refrigerator. Strain the broth, bring to a boil, add soaked gelatin (12-15 g per 1 liter of broth) and lighten with caviar extract. Transparent strained jelly should resemble fish soup in appearance and taste. Cool the jelly slightly and pour into a salad bowl in a layer of 1-1.5 cm. Place pieces of sterlet on the frozen layer of jelly, garnish them with crayfish tails, granular caviar and gradually pour in the jelly.
When serving, the salad bowl with sterlet can be placed in another salad bowl with crushed ice.
Serve horseradish sauce separately.
You can also cook pike perch, burbot or ruff.

Salmon or trout aspic (whole fish)

Ingredients : 120 g salmon, 100 g vegetable side dish in baskets, 50 g jelly, 1/15 lemon, 30 g mayonnaise, greens.

Preparation

Process medium-sized salmon or large trout so that the belly is not cut.
Bandage the prepared fish (in its entirety with the head) in several places with narrow strips of gauze, place it belly on the grill, tie it in two places and place the grill in the fish pot.
Pour the cooled spicy broth over the fish and slowly heat it to a boil, then cook the fish at a temperature close to boiling. Cool the fish in the broth, remove the gauze, dry and remove the skin, cut the fish on both sides with a thin sharp knife, taking into account the number of servings. Decorate the fish with egg whites, parsley leaves, pieces of olives or truffles, etc., attaching the garnish using jelly (dipping each piece of garnish in the jelly). After this, cover the fish with a thin layer of semi-hardened jelly using a paper tube and put it in the refrigerator.
Pour clear, strong jelly onto the dish (taking into account the weight of the fish carcass) and, when it hardens, place the fish in the middle of the dish. Make a narrow welt around the fish using finely chopped jelly using a paper tube. Garnish the fish with vegetables, herbs, puff pastry baskets with chopped jelly. Stick the claws of large crayfish with lemon slices into the back of the fish.
Serve mayonnaise sauce separately.

The pig is cold

Ingredients : 1 pig, 3 tablespoons of gelatin, 1 bunch of parsley, salt to taste.
For the sauce: 400 g sour cream, 100 g horseradish, salt and sugar to taste.

Preparation

Wrap the singed and well-washed piglet in a napkin, put it in an enamel pan, add water so that it covers the piglet, put it on high heat, let the water boil strongly once, then reduce the heat so that the water does not boil.
In this way, cook the pig for 3.5 hours without salt, spices and roots. When the pig is cooked, remove it, transfer it to another pan and cover with salted cold water. Make jelly from 1.5 liters of broth in which the pig was cooked.
Cut the cooled pig into portions: cut off the head at the joint, cut it in half lengthwise, cut off the legs at the joint, cut the pig lengthwise, cut both halves into the same number of pieces.
On a long dish, place the pieces so that you get a whole pig, pour semi-hardened jelly over it, garnishing the pig with parsley sprigs.
Serve this dish with horseradish sauce and sour cream.

Hazel grouse salad

Ingredients : 1 hazel grouse, 4-5 pcs. potatoes, 2 fresh or pickled cucumbers, 100 g of green salad, 2 eggs, 1 tablespoon of vinegar, mayonnaise sauce.

Preparation

Cut the pulp of boiled or fried hazel grouse, potatoes, cucumbers, hard-boiled egg into thin slices, cut the lettuce leaves into 2-3 pieces each, put it all in a bowl, add salt and mix with mayonnaise sauce, adding vinegar and 1/2 teaspoon of powdered sugar. .
Place the salad in a heap in a salad bowl, garnish with green lettuce leaves and slices of hard-boiled eggs, as well as slices of tomatoes and fresh cucumbers.

Hot smoked goose or duck salad

Ingredients : 50 g of cooked poultry, 50 g of potatoes, 50 g of cucumbers, 30 g of green beans or peas, 1 egg, 50 g of mayonnaise, 10 g of tomato sauce, herbs.

Preparation

Cut boiled potatoes, cucumbers and tomatoes (fresh or canned) into thin slices, green beans into slices, chop lettuce, cut smoked poultry into thin slices.
Season some of the prepared vegetables and herbs with sauce, mayonnaise, add tomato sauce and place in a heap in a salad bowl; Place slices of poultry on top, cut the remaining vegetables and boiled eggs into slices and place around the mound.
Before serving, pour mayonnaise from a paper tube over the salad and garnish with herbs.

Game and vegetable salad

Ingredients : 60 g cooked game, 35 g potatoes, 30 g fresh cucumbers, 25 g cauliflower, 30 g tomatoes, 10 g celery, 15 g beans (pods), 25 g green peas, 25 g asparagus, 40 g salad dressing, 15 g green salad.

Preparation

Cut boiled or fried game (hazel grouse, pheasant, black grouse, partridge) into thin oblong slices, boiled potatoes and carrots into slices 1.5-2 cm in diameter, boiled asparagus and green beans into slices 2.5-3 cm in diameter, Divide the boiled cauliflower into small balls.
Use canned peas. Cut the salad celery into thin strips, fresh tomatoes and cucumbers into circles.
Place finely chopped lettuce in the center of a salad bowl or vase, and around it - vegetables in piles, then slices of game in a pyramid; Place celery branches or lettuce leaves in the middle.
When serving, drizzle with salad dressing or serve on the side.

Game fillet aspic

Ingredients : 1/2 hazel grouse or partridge, 50 g mayonnaise with jelly, 1.5 gelatin, 150 g side dish of vegetables, prunes and herbs, 20 g salad dressing, 1/4 egg.

Preparation

Poach hazel grouse or partridge, cool, remove fillets from bones, clean and trim. Separate the small fillet, cut it slightly obliquely in two or three places with a sharp knife and insert 1.5 cm thick semicircular slices of egg white, tongue or ham into the slits and fill with meat jelly.
Cover large game fillets with mayonnaise and jelly sauce. Decorate with a pattern of vegetables, prunes, etc. Cover the top with semi-hardened jelly using a spoon for gloss.
When serving, place a large fillet covered with mayonnaise on top of a mixture of vegetables, and next to a small fillet covered in jelly.

Eggs in baskets with crabs

Ingredients : 1 egg, 35 g canned crabs or crayfish necks, 25 g mayonnaise, 10 g granular caviar, 1 puff pastry basket, greens.

Preparation

Boil the eggs in a bag and cool. Place eggs in baskets made of puff pastry or unleavened pastry filled with crabs seasoned with mayonnaise sauce. Release granular caviar (in the form of a string) from a paper tube around it.
When serving, place the baskets on a dish covered with a paper napkin and garnish with sprigs of parsley or celery.

Eggs with fish in vol-au-vents

Ingredients : 2 eggs, 2 medium-sized vol-au-vent or 1 large, 80 g fish, 50 g sauce, 10 g wine, 1/10 lemon, 5 g flour, 10 g mushrooms, 50 g crabs or crayfish necks, 10 g butter, pepper .

Preparation

Cut sturgeon, stellate sturgeon, beluga without skin and cartilage into small slices (7-10 g each), scald in boiling water and simmer in a sealed container with fish broth and dry white wine. Transfer the finished fish to another bowl, and evaporate the remaining broth by half, then pour white or tomato sauce into it, boil, season with butter, lemon juice, salt and pepper.
Place poached fish, boiled fresh champignons or porcini mushrooms cut into thin slices into this sauce and heat everything to 80-85° C. Cut fresh salmon, salmon, white fish, whitefish, pike perch or any other scaly fish without skin and bones into cube-shaped pieces about 1.5 cm in size, salt, breaded in flour and lightly fry in butter.
Pour the fried fish with white or tomato sauce, seasoned with butter, salt and pepper, add boiled fresh champignons or porcini mushrooms cut into thin slices. After this, bring the fish to a low boil until fully cooked.
Cut the prepared crabs or crayfish tails into small pieces, heat with butter and season with tomato sauce.
Fill vol-au-vents from unleavened puff pastry with one or another fish or crabs, prepared as described, place an egg boiled in a bag on them, pour over thick tomato sauce, and if the fish was seasoned with white sauce, then use Hollandaise or crayfish sauce.
Garnish the dish with crayfish tails and slices of champignons.

Merchant pancakes

Ingredients : 800 g buckwheat flour, 500 g wheat flour, 1 liter of milk, 0.5 liter of cream, 200 g of sour cream, 100 g of butter, 5 eggs, a tablespoon of salt, a tablespoon of sugar, yeast.

Preparation

Boil half the required amount of milk, cool it so that it is slightly warm. Dissolve yeast in a small amount of this milk, pour it into the rest of the milk, gradually add all the buckwheat flour, stirring well. Place the dough in a warm place for 1-2 hours.
Add the rest of the milk and cream, add the yolks, mashed with sour cream, sugar, butter and salt, and gradually add wheat flour.
The dough is kneaded and allowed to rise for 1.5-2 hours.
Then add the whipped whites.

Pancakes with baked goods

These pancakes were very common in the old days. A variety of products were used as a filling (filling): chopped eggs, mushrooms, liver, fish and others.
These pancakes can be baked in different ways, depending on the hearth. The easiest way is as follows: pour less dough into a heated, greased frying pan than usual. When the pancake is slightly browned on the bottom, put the bake on it and fill it with a new portion of dough so that the bake is inside. Then the pancake is turned over to the other side and lightly fried.
The bake can be placed directly on a heated frying pan, and then pour the dough on top. If you bake pancakes in a Russian oven, then it is better to bake them open on the unfried side of the pancake.
You can include various vegetables as a filler in pancake dough. It is not only tasty, but also very healthy, since the dish is made more balanced in composition and less calorie.
The method of preparing pancakes with various vegetable additives is practically no different from those described.
Such pancakes are especially useful for children and the elderly.

Pancakes without yeast

Ingredients : 200 g buckwheat flour, 200 g wheat flour, 3 glasses of milk, a full dessert spoon of soda, 3 eggs, a full dessert spoon of cream of tartar (purified cream of tartar), 2 tablespoons of water, a spoon of butter.

Preparation

200 g of buckwheat flour and 200 g of wheat flour are stirred in 3 glasses of cold milk, adding it little by little; then add 3 heavily scrambled eggs and, shortly before baking, add a full dessert spoon of creamtartar and a full dessert spoon of soda, dissolved in 2 tablespoons of water.
Small pancakes are baked from the prepared dough in butter or fat and served with melted butter and sour cream.

Pancakes with soda

Ingredients : 400 g buckwheat flour, 400 g wheat flour, 4.5-5 glasses of water, 2 teaspoons salt, 2 teaspoons sugar, 1 teaspoon citric acid, 1 teaspoon soda, 100-200 g butter.

Preparation

Take 400 g of buckwheat and 400 g of wheat flour, 4.5 - 5 glasses of warm water, add salt, sugar, mix well, beat.
When the pans are hot, take 1 teaspoon of acid, pour it into 0.5 cups of cold water, stir, pour into the dough, then stir 1 teaspoon of soda into 0.5 cups of cold water, pour into the dough, stir and bake immediately pancakes.
Serve melted butter, sour cream, and caviar with the pancakes.

Buckwheat custard pancakes

Ingredients : 4 cups buckwheat flour, 2.5 cups water, 2 cups milk, 20-25 g yeast, 1 teaspoon sugar, salt to taste.

Preparation

These pancakes are called custard because the flour or dough is brewed with boiling water. You should not use boiling water, but only water heated to a boil. The liquid should be poured gradually (in a trickle) so as not to kill the yeast.
Pour two cups of flour into a saucepan, pour two cups of boiling water over it, stir well so that there are no lumps. When the dough has cooled to room temperature, dilute the yeast in half a glass of warm water and pour it into the dough. Beat the dough well, cover with a towel and place in a warm place. When the dough has increased in volume by 2-3 times, add flour, milk, salt, beat again and place in a warm place.
Bake pancakes as usual.

Early ripening Guryev pancakes

Ingredients : 800 g wheat flour, 8 eggs, 100 g butter.

Preparation

Place 800 g of wheat flour, 8 egg yolks and 100 g of butter in a saucepan and, after thoroughly stirring with a paddle, dilute with sour milk to the proper proportion.
Then beat 8 egg whites, put them in the dough and, having mixed the whole mass with a jellied spoon, bake pancakes.

Apple pancakes

Ingredients : 10 sweet and sour apples, 1.6 kg of wheat flour, 15 g of dry yeast, 10 eggs, cream.

Preparation

Apples are pureed or apples are baked in an oven and then rubbed through a sieve. Make a dough with milk from 800 g of flour; when it cools down, add yeast diluted in a small amount of milk and place in a warm place to rise.
When the dough has risen, add applesauce, another 800 g of flour, 10 yolks and 10 beaten whites, beat well, dilute with cream until the thickness of ordinary pancakes, let rise again and bake.
Sugar, jam and cream are served separately.

Kulebyaka

She was very popular among the merchants. It was often served in taverns. Kulebyaki differ from pies primarily in the ratio of filling to dough - in pies there is more dough than filling, and in kulebyaki the filling makes up more than half of the total weight, as well as, often, in their elongated shape and complex filling.

Ingredients :
For the dough: 400 g flour, 25-30 g yeast, 1.5 glasses of milk, 100 g butter, 1-2 eggs, a pinch of salt, sugar to taste.
For minced fish: 400 g pike fillet (or other fish), 1 tablespoon vegetable oil, 2 eggs, 2 tablespoons crushed crackers, 1 tablespoon sour cream, 1/3 cup milk, 1 onion, salt and pepper to taste.
For the rice filling: 200 g rice, 2.5 cups water, 1 tablespoon oil, 1 teaspoon salt.
In addition, you need 300 g of fillet of any fatty fish, egg yolk for lubrication.

Preparation

Prepare the yeast dough using the sponge method. While the dough is rising, cook the rice porridge. After the porridge has cooled, place it in a greased frying pan and bake in the oven until the porridge is slightly browned.
Scroll the pike fillet twice together with onions through a meat grinder and, adding finely chopped boiled eggs, as well as other ingredients, mix the resulting minced meat well.
When the dough has risen, you need to roll it out into an oval cake about the thickness of your finger. In the center of it, in an oblong mound, place layers of minced fish and rice, then pieces of fish fillet and again minced meat and rice.
Wrap the edges of the flatbread and pinch tightly over the minced meat. Decorate the surface of the pie with dough elements. Place the prepared kulebyak in a warm place for 15-20 minutes to proof. Then you should grease it with egg yolk and make several punctures with a fork. This is necessary to allow steam to escape during baking.
The oven temperature should be 210-220°C. The baking time for the pie depends on the thickness of the dough and the type of minced meat. The readiness of the kulebyaki can be determined by piercing it with a thin wooden stick or a match: if the dough does not stick to the stick, then the pie is ready.

Pie

Rasstegai is a round-shaped baked product with an open filling in the middle. Externally, it is a pie, pinched in such a way that there is a hole on top and open filling. Pies were constantly served in taverns.

Ingredients : 400 g flour, 3 tablespoons butter, 25-30 g yeast, 300 g pike fillet, 300 g salmon (pike and salmon can be replaced with other fish, so good minced meat is obtained from sea bass, cod, pike perch, carp), 2 - 3 pinches of ground black pepper, 3 eggs, a spoonful of crushed crackers, 1.25 cups of milk, salt to taste.

Preparation

Dissolve the yeast in warm milk, add flour and knead the dough. Let it rise, then put 2 yolks, 2 tablespoons of butter into it and, after beating well, let the dough rise again.
Finely chop the pike fillet and, after adding salt and pepper, fry it in oil.
Roll out the risen dough into a thin sheet and cut circles out of it using a glass or cup. Place minced pike on each circle, and a thin piece of salmon on it. Pinch the ends of the pies so that the middle remains open.
Place the prepared pies on a greased baking sheet and let them rest for 10-15 minutes. Then brush each pie with egg and sprinkle with breadcrumbs.
Pies should be baked in an oven heated to a temperature of 210-220°C.

Moscow rasstegai with meat and egg

Ingredients :
For minced meat: 800 g of meat (pulp), 3 tablespoons of margarine, 5 hard-boiled eggs, salt, ground black pepper to taste.

Preparation

Prepare regular sponge yeast dough. Cut the meat into small pieces and pass through a meat grinder or chop with a knife. Place the chopped meat on a baking sheet (or frying pan) greased with margarine, simmer a little, then pass through a meat grinder a second time (or chop), add salt, pepper, and chopped eggs.
Make balls of the dough weighing about 150 g each and let them rise for 8-10 minutes. Roll out these balls into round cakes, put the filling (70-80 g) on ​​them and pinch the edges, leaving the middle open. Leave the pies for 10-15 minutes on a baking sheet greased with margarine.
Bake pies at a temperature of 210-220° C.
After baking, grease them with butter.

Moscow rasstegai with mushrooms and rice

Ingredients :
For minced meat: 200 g of dried mushrooms, 1 onion, 2-3 tablespoons of margarine, 100 g of rice, salt, ground black pepper to taste.

Preparation

These pies are prepared in the same way as the previous ones. They differ only in the filling. It is done as follows. Boil the mushrooms, drain in a colander, rinse thoroughly, mince or chop. Finely chop the onion and fry along with the mushrooms for 5-7 minutes.
Cool the fried mushrooms with onions, mix with boiled fluffy rice, add salt and pepper. The filling is ready.

Rybnik Siberian

Ingredients :
For the filling: 500 g fish fillet, 1 onion, 2-3 potatoes, 2-3 tablespoons butter, salt and pepper to taste, 2 eggs for greasing.

Preparation

Prepare yeast dough using the sponge method. Roll it out as for a regular pie and form two round or rectangular cakes. The cake that will be used for the bottom layer of the pie should be slightly thinner than the top.
Place the filling on the flatbread: a layer of thinly sliced ​​raw potatoes, large pieces of fish fillet sprinkled with salt and pepper, and top with thinly sliced ​​raw onion. Drizzle everything with oil and cover with a second flatbread. Connect the edges of the cakes and fold them down. Let the dough rise, brush it with egg and make several punctures with a fork. Bake in an oven preheated to a temperature of 200-220° C. Instead of raw potatoes, you can use mashed potatoes prepared with the addition of fried onions, milk, and cream.

Big Russian pie

Ingredients :
For the dough: 25 g of yeast, 400 g of flour, one and a half glasses of milk, a quarter spoon of salt, 100 g of butter, egg, spoon of crushed crackers.
For the minced meat: a plate of leftover roast, a cup of roast sauce, a spoonful of butter, a spoonful of sour cream.
For the rice filling: 100 g of rice, 4.5 cups of water, half a spoon of oil, 5 eggs, a teaspoon of salt.

Preparation

Prepare the yeast dough, knead well and let it rise. After grinding 100 g of butter into foam, place it in the well-risen dough and allow the dough, if there is time, to rise again.
Then, adding a little flour, knead the dough and, having rolled out part of the dough as thick as a finger, place it on a buttered sheet; a layer of minced meat (made from leftover roast meat, butter, sour cream and roast sauce) is placed on the dough, then hard-boiled coarsely chopped eggs, rice and eggs again (washed rice is boiled in 4.5 cups of water with the addition of salt and half a spoon oil; it should not be placed hot on the dough).
Having rolled out the rest of the dough, close the filling and, pinching it well on all sides, let it rise again.
After this, brush with egg, sprinkle with breadcrumbs and bake for about an hour in a fairly hot oven.
The pie is served hot.

Pie with fresh cabbage

Ingredients : 1 head of cabbage, 1-2 onions, 1/4 cup oil, pepper, green dill, salt.

Preparation

Chop 1 head of cabbage, add salt, put in a saucepan, cook a little, squeeze. Put the oil in a frying pan, fry the cabbage, stirring, until soft, but so that the cabbage does not brown; when it cools down, add pepper, green dill, and fill the pie.
Bake as usual.

Pie with sauerkraut and fish

Ingredients : 400-600 g cabbage, 1/3 cup vegetable oil, 5 allspice grains, 1 onion, 600-800 g fish, 5 black pepper grains.

Preparation

Fry 1 finely chopped onion in 1/4 cup of oil, add 3 cups of squeezed sauerkraut, small pepper and English pepper, simmer covered until soft, stirring so as not to burn.
Cleaned salted fish: salmon, salmon, sturgeon, etc., cut into thin slices, remove the bones from it, fry in a spoon of oil, mix with cabbage, fill the pie.

Pie with mushrooms and rice

Boil 100 g of dried boletus until soft, chop finely; Fry finely chopped onion in 4 tablespoons of oil, mix with mushrooms, fry lightly, add salt and pepper, mix with boiled rice (1 cup), which can be cooked in mushroom broth, fill with ordinary yeast dough.
Bake as usual.

Pie "Family"

Ingredients :
For the first filling: 3 tablespoons of rice, 150 g of fresh mushrooms, 4 tablespoons of butter, 3 glasses of water for cooking rice, 1 onion, 1 teaspoon of wheat flour, salt and pepper to taste.
For the second filling: 700 g of fresh cabbage, 2 eggs, 4 tablespoons of butter, salt to taste.

Preparation

Prepare yeast sponge dough, roll out into a wide thin layer and cut out circles with a diameter of 60-70 mm. Prepare the fillings.
For the first filling, cook the rice, boil the mushrooms in salted water until tender, pass through a meat grinder and fry in oil with onions. Place the mushrooms from the frying pan, fry the flour on it, dilute it with mushroom broth (1/2 cup). Combine this sauce with mushrooms and rice.
For the second filling, wash the cabbage and cut out the stalk. Then chop the head of cabbage and fry in a frying pan with butter until soft. Add chopped boiled eggs to the cabbage, salt everything and mix.
Place minced meat in the middle of each circle (flatbread), fold the flatbread in half and seal it with a patty. In this case, the pies should have different minced meats. Place a layer of pies in a greased wide and deep enough pan and grease them with oil. Place a new layer on them, etc., until the form is filled to the top. Grease the top layer of pies with oil, place the pan in the oven and bake at a temperature of 200-220° C.
When serving, this pie is not cut, but taken into pieces using a fork, spoon and knife.

Honey pie

Ingredients :
For the filling: 1 glass of honey, 200 g of butter, 1 glass of nuts, 3 eggs (one of which is for greasing).

Preparation

Prepare yeast sponge or unpaired dough, roll it out into a round or rectangular flat cake, and place it in a greased frying pan.
Make a rope from the same dough and place it on a baking sheet along the edges of the pie. This edge is designed to prevent the honey filling from dripping onto the baking sheet.
Prepare the filling: heat honey and butter until liquid, cool to 25-30°C, add chopped nuts and eggs and mix everything. Place this filling evenly on the surface of the pie and after proofing for 20-30 minutes, brush the side with egg and bake in the oven at a temperature of 210-220°C.

Siberian dumplings

Ingredients : 300 g beef pulp, 300 g pork pulp, 1 onion, 2-3 cloves of garlic, 2/3 cup milk, salt and pepper to taste.

Preparation

Pass the beef, pork, onion and garlic through a meat grinder, add salt and pepper, add milk and stir the minced meat well until fluffy.
Prepare the dough and make dumplings.

Mushroom dumplings

Ingredients : 100 g of dried mushrooms, 400 g of any fish fillet (preferably sturgeon, salmon, halibut), 2 onions, 1/2 cup of vegetable oil, salt, pepper to taste.

Preparation

Rinse the mushrooms well, add water so that it covers them by 2 fingers, and cook until soft.
Pass the fish fillet, mushrooms, and onions through a meat grinder, mix everything well and fry until tender in a frying pan with oil.

Dumplings with cabbage

Ingredients : 300-350 g pork pulp, 200 g fresh cabbage, 1/4 cup water, 1 onion, salt and pepper to taste.

Preparation

Pass the pork pulp and onion through a meat grinder, add finely chopped cabbage, salt, pepper, water and mix well.
Next, cook the dumplings in the usual way.

Far Eastern dumplings

Ingredients : 250 g pork pulp, 300 g fish fillet (pink salmon, chum salmon), 2 onions, 1 egg, 1/4 cup water, salt and pepper to taste.

Preparation

Mince fish, pork and onions twice. Add egg, pepper, salt, water and mix well.
Next, cook the dumplings in the usual way.

Porridge "Puhovaya"

Ingredients : 2 cups buckwheat, 2 eggs, 4 cups milk, 30-40 g butter, 2 cups cream, 3 tablespoons sugar, 5 raw egg yolks.

Preparation

Grind buckwheat with 2 raw eggs, place on a baking sheet and dry in the oven. Boil crumbly porridge in milk, add butter and, when it has cooled, rub it through a sieve onto a dish.
Prepare the dressing: boil the cream with sugar. Beat the yolks, stir them with the cooled cream, put on the fire and heat, stirring, until thickened.
Divide the porridge into bowls and drizzle with dressing before serving.

Semolina porridge with cranberry juice

Ingredients : 1 cup semolina, 400 g cranberries, 1 cup sugar, 1 cup cream.

Preparation

Wash the cranberries, crush and squeeze out the juice. Pour the marc with water, boil, strain the broth, add sugar and boil.
Dilute semolina with cranberry juice, pour into boiling syrup and cook thick porridge.
Pour the hot porridge into molds and let cool.
Serve with cream.

Guryevskaya porridge

Ingredients : 1/2 cup semolina, 2 cups milk, 1/2 cup chopped walnuts or candied fruits, 2 tablespoons sugar, 2 tablespoons butter, 2 eggs, salt, vanillin to taste.
For the sauce: 10 apricots, 2 tablespoons of sugar, 2-3 tablespoons of water.

Preparation

Add salt to boiling milk and gradually add semolina in a thin stream, stirring constantly, brew a viscous porridge. Cool the finished porridge a little.
Add egg yolks mashed with sugar and beaten whites into foam, as well as walnut kernels fried in butter. Mix everything carefully.
Place a layer of porridge in a massive (thick-bottomed) greased frying pan. Place pitted apricots on it and cover them with milk froth, then again lay a layer of porridge. (To prepare the foams, pour milk into a wide shallow pan and place the pan in a preheated oven. As the foams form, they must be periodically removed.) Sprinkle the porridge with powdered sugar on top and burn it with a hot metal rod (knife, knitting needle) so that stripes form on the surface.
Place the porridge in the oven and bake until golden brown. Sprinkle the finished dish with nuts, decorate with fruits, candied fruits and serve in the same container in which it was prepared. The sauce can be served separately - either cold or hot.
It is prepared like this: chop pitted apricots, mix with sugar, add water and cook until the fruit is softened.

Fresh cabbage soup

Ingredients : 500-700 g of meat with bone, 2 liters of water, 600-700 g of white or savoy cabbage, 2 medium potatoes, 1 small turnip, 1 large carrot, parsley root, 1 large onion, 1 tablespoon of tomato puree or 2 fresh tomatoes, 2 tablespoons cooking oil, 2-3 bay leaves, 2-3 black peppercorns, salt to taste.

Preparation

In an open saucepan over low heat, cook the meat with the bone (to make the broth richer, put the meat in cold water). Remove the scum from the boiling broth and pour a spoonful of cold water into it. When the foam appears again, repeat the operation, and so on until scale stops forming. Wipe off any foam that has dried on the edges of the pan with a clean, damp cloth and continue cooking the broth for 2-2.5 hours (until half-cooked).
Cut the cabbage into checkers or strips and place it in the boiling broth. When the broth boils again, add potatoes cut into slices or cubes.
Lightly fry finely chopped roots and onions in fat with tomato puree in a frying pan, season them with cabbage soup and boil them for 15-20 minutes. 5 minutes before the end of cooking, add pepper, bay leaf and salt to taste into the pan. Along with the spices, you can add 2-3 cloves of garlic, crushed with salt.
If you use fresh tomatoes instead of tomato puree, they must be placed in the pan before the end of cooking.
Pour the finished cabbage soup into plates, put a piece of meat in each, and sprinkle with herbs on top.
Serve sour cream in a gravy boat with the cabbage soup.

Sauerkraut cabbage soup

Ingredients : 400-600 g sauerkraut, 1-2 carrots, 1-2 parsley roots, 1 onion, 2 tablespoons of tomato puree, 1 tablespoon wheat flour, 2 tablespoons cooking fat, 2 liters of water.

Preparation

Cook unsalted meat broth from beef, lamb or pork as described above. While the broth is cooking, squeeze the juice out of the shredded sauerkraut, put it in a saucepan, add a spoonful of tomato puree, pour in a glass of broth or water, cover with a lid and simmer for 1.5-2 hours. The heat should be high at first, and when the cabbage warms up, reduce it to low. The softer the stewed cabbage, the tastier the cabbage soup.
10-15 minutes before the end of stewing the cabbage, add roots and onions fried in fat. Place the cabbage in the boiling broth and cook until tender for 30-40 minutes. 15 minutes before the end of cooking, pour the flour sauté into the broth, add bay leaf, pepper, and salt to taste.
You can add 2-3 cloves of garlic, crushed with salt, to the prepared cabbage soup.
These cabbage soups are also prepared with potatoes or cereals. Cut 2-3 potatoes into cubes or slices. Steam two tablespoons of cereal (preferably pearl barley or millet) separately until half cooked. Place the prepared products into the boiling broth 20 minutes earlier than the stewed cabbage.
Place sour cream and herbs on a plate with cabbage soup.

Cabbage soup daily

Ingredients : 500-600 g of sauerkraut, 2-3 bones from smoked pork, a tablespoon of wheat flour, other ingredients as for sauerkraut cabbage soup.

Preparation

Stew chopped sauerkraut with fat and bones of smoked meats, adding half a tablespoon of tomato puree. After 1.5-2 hours of stewing, the cabbage becomes reddish, soft, with a sweetish taste. Place the stewed cabbage in a saucepan with broth and cook for about 1 hour.
30 minutes before the end of cooking, add the roots fried with tomato puree, and 10-15 minutes - spices, flour sauté, salt. Place 2-3 cloves of garlic, mashed with salt, into the prepared cabbage soup. The most delicious cabbage soup is obtained if it is infused in a clay pot.
To do this, remove the pan with cabbage soup from the heat immediately after adding spices, that is, 10 minutes before the end of cooking, and pour the cabbage soup into clay portion pots (0.5 liter capacity). Place a piece of meat and a clove of garlic, crushed with salt, in each pot. The top of the pot is covered with a piece of rolled out unleavened pastry, the dough is brushed with egg and baked in the oven. When the flatbread-lid browns and becomes convex, the cabbage soup is ready.
Day-old cabbage soup is best eaten with a wooden spoon straight from the pot.

Sauerkraut cabbage soup with sturgeon head

Ingredients : 500-600 g of head, 500 g of sauerkraut, 2 medium carrots, 2 parsley roots, 1 onion, 1 tablespoon of tomato puree, 2 tablespoons of fat, 1 spoon of wheat flour, 2 liters of water.

Preparation

Remove the gills and eyes from the heads of sturgeon fish and cut into 4 parts. Scald with boiling water, rinse, add cold water and bring to a boil. Then, reduce the heat, cook at a very low boil for an hour.
Remove the foam that forms on the surface of the broth by adding a spoonful of cold water each time. After cooking, carefully remove the pieces of head meat, separate the pulp from the cartilage, add water to the cartilage again and cook until softened. Strain the resulting broth.
Next, the cabbage soup is cooked in the same way as meat cabbage soup from sauerkraut.
Place pieces of boiled head and cartilage on a plate, fill them with cabbage soup, add sour cream and herbs.

Rich cabbage soup with mushrooms

Ingredients : 5-6 dried white mushrooms, 600 g of sauerkraut, the rest of the ingredients are the same as for sauerkraut cabbage soup.

Preparation

Make mushroom broth from dried mushrooms. Remove the boiled mushrooms from the broth and cut into cubes.
Stew sauerkraut with roots and onions in the usual way along with chopped mushrooms, sautéed flour, pepper, bay leaf and salt, put in boiling mushroom broth and cook for 5-10 minutes.
Ready cabbage soup is served with sour cream and chopped parsley and dill.

Sauerkraut cabbage soup with fish

Cook as usual, but in fish broth made from waste or small fish.
The fish is filleted without bones, cut into pieces, and poached. The fish broth is poured into cabbage soup.
You can pre-bread the fish, fry it, put it in a pot with cabbage soup and bring it to readiness.
Cabbage soup is served with herbs, without sour cream, with fish pies.

Prefabricated cabbage soup ("Petrovskie")

These cabbage soup were called “rich” - they were prepared only in wealthy families.
It is prepared like regular cabbage soup in meat broth, but when cooking the broth, bones from smoked meats are added. Ham, meat, and chicken are cooked in the same broth.
A meat set is placed in a clay pot: sliced ​​boiled meat, chicken, ham, brought to a boil and served with herbs, sour cream, and cheesecakes.
Currently, in addition to the listed meat products, the set includes sausage and frankfurters. Separately cook finely chopped fresh mushrooms. Remove the mushrooms from the broth, then lightly fry.
When the cabbage has evaporated and become soft, add flour fried until light brown.
Add all ingredients and fresh herbs to the mushroom broth.
Heat the cabbage soup over low heat, without bringing it to a boil, so that it becomes saturated with the mushroom and cabbage spirit.

Rassolnik Novo-Troitsky

Ingredients : 15 ruffs, 400 g pike perch, 400 g fresh (frozen) fatty fish, preferably sturgeon, 400 g salted fish (stellate sturgeon, sturgeon, beluga), 10-15 crayfish, 2 parsley roots, 5 pickles, 2 tablespoons flour , cucumber pickle, salt, pepper to taste, 1 tablespoon of tomato puree, 1 bunch of dill.

Preparation

Place the ruffs in gauze, tie it into a knot and place it in a pan of water. Add parsley root, salt and cook the fish soup. When the soup is cooked, remove the gauze with ruffs from it and strain. Then cook portioned pieces of large fish in it. Place the cooked fish in cold salted water. Boil salted fish separately.
In a heated pan, fry the flour, dilute it with hot cucumber brine, bring to a boil, add the broth from cooking fresh fish and boil again. Then put the side dish in the pan: pieces of boiled fish, cucumbers simmered with tomatoes until soft, boiled crayfish tails.
Place dill in plates with pickle sauce.

Moscow Solyanka

Ingredients : 200 g fresh salmon, 200 g fresh pike perch, 200 g fresh (or salted) sturgeon, 100 g olives, 2 tablespoons of tomato puree, 3-4 pickled white mushrooms, 2-3 pickled cucumbers, 1 onion, 2 tablespoons butter, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 glass cucumber pickle, 1 tablespoon capers, black pepper, bay leaf, salt to taste, 1.5-2 liters of meat or fish broth.

Preparation

Place finely chopped onion in a saucepan and fry in oil. Pour flour into the same pan, add broth and cucumber brine, mix well and bring to a boil.
Then add chopped mushrooms, capers, olives, bay leaves and pepper and bring to a boil again.
Place scalded pieces of prepared fish and simmered cucumbers with tomato puree into a pan and cook over low heat until the fish is ready.
Solyanka should have a light, slightly reddish broth, a pungent taste, and the smell of fish and spices. Place a piece of each type of fish into plates, pour soup over them, add a circle of lemon, herbs, and olives.
Serve pies with fish along with the solyanka.

Burbot soup

Ingredients : 1 burbot (500-600 g), preferably with milk, 2-4 tablespoons of flour, 1 egg, 2 onions, 5-7 peppercorns, bay leaf, salt to taste, 1 carrot, 1 parsley root, ground pepper, 1 tablespoon capers, 1 tablespoon oil, 10 olives, half a lemon, 1.5-2 liters of water.

Preparation

Gut the fish, setting aside the milk and liver, soak and carefully remove the skin. Scrape the pulp from the bones and place it on a plate. Pour cold water over the head, bones, tail and fins of the burbot and cook for 15-20 minutes with a whole onion, bay leaf, pepper, finely chopped carrots and parsley. Then strain the broth well into another pan.
Pass the burbot pulp through a meat grinder, mix with flour, raw egg, salt and pepper. You should get a thick plastic mass. Roll this mass into a roll 3 cm thick and lower it into boiling broth for 5 minutes. Put milk and burbot liver into the broth and cook them. 3 minutes before readiness, add mugs of fish pulp, a spoonful of capers and butter.
Olives and a circle of lemon are placed on a plate with fish soup.

Rostov fish soup

Ingredients : 200 g pike perch, 400 g small fish, 4-5 potatoes, 1 parsley root, 1 large onion, 3-4 tomatoes, 1 tablespoon butter, a bunch of parsley or dill, salt to taste, 2 liters of water.

Preparation

Fish broth is prepared from small fish in gauze as usual. Potatoes and onions, cut into slices, are placed in the boiling broth.
10-15 minutes after the end of cooking, add pieces of pike perch, then sliced ​​​​tomatoes and spices.
Before serving, the fish soup is seasoned with butter and herbs.

Eel soup

Ingredients : 1.2-1.6 kg of eel, 4 onions, 3 parsley roots, several grains of pepper, bay leaf, salt.

Preparation

Take an eel, remove the skin from it or wash it thoroughly with sand without removing the skin, gut it, rub the inside with salt, wipe with a clean napkin.
Pour water into a saucepan, put four onions and parsley, a few grains of pepper, and a bay leaf; When the roots are cooked, add large pieces of chopped eel and add salt to taste.
When the eel is almost ready, after about 3/4 of an hour, take it out, transfer it to another saucepan, pour in a little fish soup, add a handful of parsley and dill, green onions, and let the eel cook over low heat.
Pour into a soup bowl, top with the rest of the fish soup and serve.

Few people know that it is pointless to talk about Russian cuisine. It simply doesn't exist. Surprise! Many foreign gastronomic experts confirm this fact. However, like the fact that there are neither French nor Italian cuisines. But the fact is that they are all created artificially. And they only point to the geographical boundaries of the huge food cauldrons in which hundreds and thousands of regional gastronomic features are cooked.

Gastronomic roots

We have all tried Russian cuisine. Ah, these dishes with bright, straightforward flavors and an undying love for potatoes and dill! Modern domestic cooking has a tenacious grip on mayonnaise, and now they have love and complete mutual understanding. All these dumplings, dumplings, pies, porridges and soups...

Meanwhile, Russian cuisine is a gastronomic phantom over the almost endless country called Russia. A mixture of dozens of peoples and cultures formed a magical cocktail in which we are still stewing. Only the Soviet Union was able to curb the free, abundant and interesting Russian cuisine, turning it into an obedient servant of the Ministry of Food Industry. The abundance of products and creativity of the chefs of Tsarist Russia gave way to rigid planning, redistribution and dry collections of recipes.

This is the inheritance that modern Russia received. An abundance of food, schools, technology and influences. Although, under the strict guidance of French chefs, Russian cuisine acquired exquisite features. Just remember the original Olivier salad: crayfish tails, quail and no sausage. But the Germans gave us a love for minced meat dishes - sausages and cutlets.

About the forgotten kitchen

And in 1785, a “Charter of Complaint to Cities” was issued in Russia. This is how the “third estate” (after the nobility and clergy) was documented, although it existed earlier, but it flourished already in the 19th century. Soviet propaganda would call them bourgeois, but history proudly calls them merchants. With the development of commerce, this group of the population gained social weight. And the kitchen did not stand aside. It was on their initiative and need that the restaurant business flourished throughout Russia. Thousands of taverns merged into the urban landscape and became an integral part of the lives of millions. This is how merchant cuisine spread to the masses.

Tyumen present

A special place in merchant cuisine was occupied by the reinterpretation of dishes and products from the past. This is how pike cutlets appeared. Once upon a time, this predator was a terrible delicacy and was wildly popular among the boyars. The same ones with big fur hats, fur coats and staves. Yes, it was they who Peter I himself chopped off his beards. Moreover, at the same time in England there was a similar hysteria among the aristocracy around the same fish. And now in Tyumen you can find pike cutlets, for example, in the restaurant “”, they are even offered here as a business lunch. The light sweetish taste of pike can please even notorious meat eaters.

Tyumen is a merchant city, although now there are metropolitan ambitions. But the past cannot be erased so easily; once upon a time it was the merchants who determined the fate of the city. If you read the biographies of the city leaders in the 19th century, then doubts about the role of the “third estate” in the life of Tyumen will melt away by themselves. For a long time, the restaurant "" was a stronghold of merchant history. A picturesque mansion in the most influential quarter. Creaking stairs. And small news from the past on the walls: money, postcards, photos with traces of history on the edges. And on the menu one could find several witnesses to the heyday of merchant gastronomy. But this has already become history.

Experiments have always been held in high esteem. Once upon a time, it was considered almost an adventure to change traditional recipes. And the dumplings differed in the method of modeling. But in the wake of merchant cuisine, hundreds of options for dumplings appeared, both in shape and filling.The Tyumen restaurant “” is not far behind, and its menu includes dumplings with fried mushrooms. True, these are not white, as Siberian logic dictates, but champignons, but thank you for trying to surprise. Yes, and serving the broth separately from the dumplings is also a godsend from the cuisine of the “third estate.”By the way, this “liquid wealth” can be easily found in the canteens of our city. I assure you, they definitely exist, and you can eat there too. On duty, I also visit public catering establishments... and I seem to be alive and well. Sometimes in such places you can find really interesting taste solutions in the style of real merchant cuisine. This is especially true for porridges and compotes. Cooked in large pots, well infused and steamed, they represent real gastronomic value.

Many merchants made their fortunes on two pillars: bread and tea. What else does a Russian person need to be happy? Do not offer alcohol... Then it was not a manic passion of millions, but the lot of only a separate group of society. So, tea creativity, worthy of being called merchant, can be found in the restaurant "". Special collection teas: “Tsarskie”, “Boyarskie”, and, in fact, “Merchant Fenced” with rose radiola, oregano, thyme and rosehip.

What is bread in the processing of merchants? What is a hamburger and a hot dog for a Russian person rolled into one? These are pies. Small and large, hearty and dessert. This is the public catering of the Tsarist era. Many small merchants started their business with it, selling pies by peddling. Yes, with a tray around his neck, luring passers-by with ringing calls. And in Tyumen you can go to for pies. The merchant classic looks like this - a pie with rabbit meat and mushrooms. By the way, a hit of the early twentieth century. And don’t let the foreign name scare you, but this is a pie shop. Remember the old Russian trading trick - calling a product or company with an unfamiliar word and preferably German? I think everyone has already guessed in what era this trick was invented. We have a lot to learn from them.

Now we live in the era of globalization. World cuisines have come as close as possible to our doorsteps. Already in my family it has become no surprise when my mother cooks lasagna, cheesecake or tiramisu. Although there is always a place for cabbage soup and dumplings on the table. And merchant cuisine proved that it is not necessary to copy foreign food in order to eat deliciously. You need to think, show resourcefulness and ingenuity. Maybe it’s time for us to make modern Russian cuisine better?

Don't forget your roots and, of course, bon appetit!